Tight spot turning the crank

Update:

Stan at Gardner racing is getting ready to ship back the crank. He said it was still slightly twisted, and the two foot wrist pin through the rods is not an accurate way to check for twist. He also replaced the thrust bearing which is the weak link. I think the slight twist, causing .0025" runout at the center, was the cause of the tight spot. I'll know for sure when I get it back and bolt it into the case.

In the meantime, I couldn't take not riding (going on a year and a half). So I bought a 2000 ZRX1100. Good fillin, right?

Congrats on the ZRX. Looks nice!

Fingers crossed on the crank.

loudhvx wrote: Congrats on the ZRX. Looks nice!

Fingers crossed on the crank.

Thanks. Man the ZRX has some serious handling compared to a KZ. But, it's not a KZ.

Hey Guys,

Been out of the loop for awhile. Lot of stuff going on.

Finally bolted the crank I got back from Stan Gardner into the case, and guess what? It's perfect. The tight spot was from crank twist, Using the 2 foot wrist pin to check for twist is not accurate. It will fit through the rods anyway, unless there's a major twist or a bent rod.

Glad to here you are back on track
Dave

Nice ZXR! always good to have backup that way theres no pressure to button something up thats questionable just to ride.

Love my new (17 year old) ZRX. I see why this bike has such a following, and It's still produced/sold in Japan.

Still Don't understand why naked, sit-straight-up, muscle bikes aren't still popular. Best of both worlds.

Today's sport touring is a sport bike with luggage compartments.

In my younger days I had my KZ and a Gpz750. So I could ride which ever mood I was in.

PS: Gave my Gpz to my brother-in-law and he wrecked it. Thank God he didn't get hurt.

Unfortunately VETC, I can't agree with you on touring bikes being sport bikes with luggage. Yes some run nicely and share components with sport bikes but they are designed to go long distances with some comfort. I would much rather take my C14 on a long journey than my beloved 75 Z1B. With the C14 if life is good and the bike is running pretty good, I had better look at the speedometer. Chances are I'm running way over the speed limit. And I don't have to mess with a chain. Now please back to the interesting thread.

OK. Round 3. Got the crank in and halves together, and everything is good. I tried holding the alternator rotor with a strap-wrench to torque it -- but it's not going to happen. Anybody got a work-around or cheap tool? I got the bolt to about 75 ft/lbs and could still see daylight between the damper and the case. I have the thinnest one in there now, and will have to go up to the standard size.

I noticed some insulation chipped off on the rotor magnets, but i'm assuming that's nothing to worry about. Also found a lot of metal particles stuck to the magnets, and got it all out with air.

Any experience with the cheap aftermarket stators? Mine was leaking past the wires. I know I can probably get it sealed, but a cheap stator would be a lot easier if they're any good.

I congratulate you on your perseverance. A lot of guys turn tail and run at the first signs of adversity but you ponied up and got it sorted. Good luck and keep going...

Nessism wrote: I congratulate you on your perseverance. A lot of guys turn tail and run at the first signs of adversity but you ponied up and got it sorted. Good luck and keep going...

Thanks. Several friends said I was gonna forget about it after I got the ZRX. I said no way!

Boy this site is getting slow.

I borrowed a rotor holder from a local Kawi dealer. Torqued to specs and with crank endplay pushed all the way to the left the flywheel had no drag at all from the damper washer. Went with the next size up ( standard/7.3mm) and the drag was there.

Seems like a lot of folks overlook this adjustment. My buddy that worked on all the P bikes for years said you'll get an endplay rattle at idle if no drag from the damper. Eliminating and cushioning endplay by pulling the crank to the left is the whole purpose.