Reed valves /Air suction valve on a 1980 kz750H1
- skooterbum4real
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Reed valves /Air suction valve on a 1980 kz750H1
18 Jul 2014 19:00 - 18 Jul 2014 19:01
Can the emission control garbage tied into the valve cover be removed ??
After reading a little bit about this garbage in my manual, if I understand it correctly, it can make the bike run lousy if the air suction valve, reed valves, need any kid of maintenance / service.
If I can remove all this and my bike runs better, and removing it does no harm to the bike, then for me it's a no brainer. But I want to be sure it's OK to do this ??
My bike is a 1980 kz750H1
Your advice will be appreciated !!
Thanks......
After reading a little bit about this garbage in my manual, if I understand it correctly, it can make the bike run lousy if the air suction valve, reed valves, need any kid of maintenance / service.
If I can remove all this and my bike runs better, and removing it does no harm to the bike, then for me it's a no brainer. But I want to be sure it's OK to do this ??
My bike is a 1980 kz750H1
Your advice will be appreciated !!
Thanks......
1978 KZ650B 8,500 miles
1976 KZ750 Twin
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION V-TWIN CHOP
1976 KZ750 Twin
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION V-TWIN CHOP
Last edit: 18 Jul 2014 19:01 by skooterbum4real. Reason: more info needed
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- loudhvx
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Re: Reed valves /Air suction valve on a 1980 kz750H1
18 Jul 2014 20:05
When vacuum switch goes bad, the symptom is usually loud backfires in the exhaust when decelerating.
If the vacuum lines are leaking, they can cause the bike to run crappy.
If it's working properly, with no leaks, then removing it should make no difference to the running of the bike.
If it had a vacuum leak, and then someone re-jetted to compensate, then removing it will require re-jetting back to where it started.
All it does is allow the exhaust to pull in fresh air to burn any excess fuel. It does not affect jetting since it is only adding air to the exhaust, not to the cylinder.
If you remove it, just make sure to cap off the two vacuum lines, the hose going to the airbox should be removed and the hole plugged with a rubber cork, and cap off the two ports on the valve cover. Leave the reed valves in the valve cover as they have seals for the port covers.
If the vacuum lines are leaking, they can cause the bike to run crappy.
If it's working properly, with no leaks, then removing it should make no difference to the running of the bike.
If it had a vacuum leak, and then someone re-jetted to compensate, then removing it will require re-jetting back to where it started.
All it does is allow the exhaust to pull in fresh air to burn any excess fuel. It does not affect jetting since it is only adding air to the exhaust, not to the cylinder.
If you remove it, just make sure to cap off the two vacuum lines, the hose going to the airbox should be removed and the hole plugged with a rubber cork, and cap off the two ports on the valve cover. Leave the reed valves in the valve cover as they have seals for the port covers.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- skooterbum4real
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Re: Reed valves /Air suction valve on a 1980 kz750H1
18 Jul 2014 20:40
Thank you !!!
1978 KZ650B 8,500 miles
1976 KZ750 Twin
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION V-TWIN CHOP
1976 KZ750 Twin
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION V-TWIN CHOP
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