TOPIC:

I realise that clutchs will slip more easily when at higher rpms and a higher gear do to the load. It only happens when I'm above 7,ooo rpms, the slippage is pretty significant to. I have adjusted the clutch as the manual says and I have this issue the engine only has about 23,000 miles on it. Has the clutch just been used so heavily that it needs to be replaced? Should I replace plates and springs?

Thanks,
Nate

you can measure the springs to see if they are in spec. but it does sound like you need new plates i have the same problem with my xs11

This comes up all to frequently, but what type of oil are you running in your bike?
If you're using an automotive oil that has shear inhibitors in it, it WILL cause your clutch to slip slightly and appear to be wearing out.
There are some automotive oils that do not use shear inhibitors in them. Standard Castrol GTX is one of those, but stay away from the High Mileage formula as it does include the shear inhibitors. Just read the content label on the oil you're using/plan on using and you should be ok.

If you're already using an oil not containing the shear inhibitors and have ruled out a stretched or clutch cable in need of adjustment, then you likely will need to replace the clutch friction plates. The steel plates usually don't need replacing. Unless of course if there is obvious physical damage, or bluing/warping to them caused by excessive clutch use and/or engine overheating from lack of lubrication.
And for the minimal cost (usually about $15 on eBay), it's always a good idea to replace the clutch springs as well.

I am using Napa 10w-40, it doesn't say weather it has the inhibitors or not. If it turns out I need to replace the clutch would you reccommend purchasing the Street Racer Clutch that EBC sells or just get the standard replacement plates?

Thanks,
Nate

go with standard parts ,no need for all that fancy aftermarket stuff on a streetbike unless you are making an insane amount of horsepower or you like doing smoke em to the cords burnouts on a regular basis.

wireman is right, stick with just getting the stock clutch friction plates and springs.
Hi-Po clutch kits the likes of APE or Barnett work really great, and actually work so well they will cause the bike to inch forward slightly even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.


If you do want to beef the stock clutch up slightly without the above mentioned drawback, just use the stock friction plates and a set of Barnett (or similar) springs.
I did that on the '84 GPz550 I once owned.
It gave the clutch a little more grab, and didn't give the felling that the bike was trying to scurry away on it's own.

I had a barnett and blew it to hell after 15 passess on a stock kz with a slick!!! I put a vesrah in with springs from a friends zrx1200 and got 100 plus passess from it no bull. Stick with stock or vesrah.

Post edited by: brokekz, at: 2006/06/24 18:48

The symptoms you are seeing are indicitive of worn clutch plates. It's really not worth it to open everything up just to measure them. I say, if you are in there anyhow, you may as well replace the clutch. It's easy to do, and reletively inexpensive.

a set of clutch springs, friction plates, and a gasket you'll be just fine. new springs are important, sometimes springs alone fix a slightly slipping clutch. but it is best to measure all plates against the service limits