Cold Exhaust

well it sounds good,if thats your biggest mistake youve made on it. lol

fires right up like that hugh

Surfdude_007 wrote: Always remember to align the crank trigger correctly if you expect your motorcycle to run at all. I nominate myself to the aforementioned position. Thank you all who attempted to assist me previously.

I hope I spliced this BoneHead thread to the correct original thread.

Bill

Yes, It is correct but I still don't have #2 cylinders coming up to temperature. but It still runs.

I'd check the valves for being too tight first, then do a compression test on all cylinders. A new/rebuilt engine might have 180-200 PSI, get some years and wear on it, and now it might be 160 PSI or so. An engine will run at 100 PSI, but produce low power and burn a lot of gas doing so.

I prefe the screw in type of compression tester vs the type you have to hold against the sparkplug holes. When checking compression, remove all 4 sparkplugs, and do it with the throttle wide open for maximum results.

If you have the original ignition coils, sparkplug wires and sparkplug caps, they are probably at the end of their useful life.

Read this:

Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

What came with the bike, were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in the stop and go traffic, and the coils will probably fail when hot.

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1.Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.

2.Copper plug wires with supression caps (a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike). These should be checked with a multimeter now and then, as heat can cause them to become intermittent. Unscrew the cap from the sparkplug wire, and use a multimeter set on OHMS, range of 20 K (20,000).

3.Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number).

4.Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be possibly three (3) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).

A video on installing an Accel 3 ohm ignition coil (Adult language used):

what we have here seems to be some sort of lube job implant of sorts and I want one

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump

www.dansmc.com/4_stroke_oilpump.htm

This is what came with the bike: Mikuni Flat slide carbs, dynatek green coils and the crank trigger to go with it. The wires I have on it now are suppression wires(but I was thinking about going with the straight copper, will that mess up the electronic ignition?). It has a kerker 4 into 1 pipe. The turn signals on it are not hooked up. but with the drag bars on it I was thinking about mounting them somewhere else. definitely needs an oil change and to be cleaned. I had already performed a compression check and with the exception of one cylinder they were around 110.

Tried another brand of sparkplug? NGK's seem to be having a quality problem, I've had several fail either right out of the box, or soon after.

www.gadgetjq.com/spark_plug_cross_reference_motorcycle.htm Accel,Bosch, and Champion are popular sparkplugs.


I use a spray bottle of water to see if the exhaust pipes are hot,water flashes to steam at 212 F.

Surfdude_007 wrote: ...The wires I have on it now are suppression wires(but I was thinking about going with the straight copper, will that mess up the electronic ignition?)....

Imo, that's an excellent idea, and would toss the existing suppression wires, and install a new set of solid metal copper core Dyna spark plug wires, that come with the caps already built-in.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...lack%29&item=DYDW200

Good Fortune!

. the real issue here is are these sportbikse or cruisers?

Patton wrote:

Surfdude_007 wrote: ...The wires I have on it now are suppression wires(but I was thinking about going with the straight copper, will that mess up the electronic ignition?)....

Imo, that's an excellent idea, and would toss the existing suppression wires, and install a new set of solid metal copper core Dyna spark plug wires, that come with the caps already built-in.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...lack%29&item=DYDW200

Good Fortune!

I was wondering about that also I guess the solid core wires will mess up an ecu if it is used on the same bike, what if I go by a car?

If wanting resistance in a secondary loop using solid core plug wires, may fit resistor plug caps OR resistor spark plugs ("R" type spark plugs), but not both R-caps and R-plugs.

Good Fortune!