Cold Exhaust

Surfdude_007 wrote: NO, the coils are not hooked up that way. Left side is one and four and the right side is two and three.

Yes exactly, 1-4 and 2-3. Now which two cylinders are cold, is it two on one coil? If so check the Primary circuit for power and the Ground charge signal to that coil. If thats good swap the coils around to see if the problem moves.

Surfdude_007 wrote: ...left two exhausts were at 630 degrees and the right two were at about 117.0 degrees....

If not already done, would remove spark plugs in #3 and #4 cylinders, and observe spark quality while spinning over the engine. Ground plug bases by holding them against the engine, and look for fat blue sparks (not weak orange sparks).

Good Fortune!

try cracking the bowl drain on the non firing cylinders. when i went two to one fuel lines i noticed the placement of the t will dictate if the higher up cylinders while on the sidestand get fuel. i had a similar issue thats why i use clear fuel line. hope this helps.

WTF!!!!!
I checked the float bowls on cylinders 3 and 4 and they were kind of dry. I checked ohms through the spark plugs. The highest was 12k and the least was 7k. I don't think this is normal.
Now I don't have any friggin spark. in any of the cylinders WTF!!!
I am about to buy all new coils,wires. I used up all the juice in the battery and it's charging now.
Is there any checks on the electrical system I can perform without the battery? ie: coils, regulators, etc. HELP!!!
Oh yeah, the pressures in the cylinders are: #1- 98, #2-60, #3-100, #4-100. Are these normal? My outboards have more compression!!!
I'm going to buy the dual feed pingel for the fuel problem.
ANY help will be appreciated. And thanks for the suggestions so far.

Oh, I forgot, whoever the guy is who wired this thing, if I every meet him, I'm going to kick his @$$!!

If not already done, would assure battery voltage in the red wire to Dyna-S.

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Compression test should be performed with throttle held wide open while spinning over the engine.

Would also assure all valve clearances being within specs.

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No battery voltage in the red wire.

Dyna-S requires switched battery voltage in order to function.

The red wire from Dyna-S is tapped or spliced into a convenient wire in the bike's wiring harness that's available to provide a source for switched battery voltage.

Switched battery voltage means that the wire is "hot" only when the bike ignition switch is ON.

A splice-connector is sometimes used to connect the red wire to the red or red/yellow wire from the harness that feeds battery positive to the ignition coils. Such splice-connector sometimes fails.




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It seems to be hooked directly to the coil. i will check it again.

The Dyna-S modules require battery voltage in order to function.
The Dyna-S red wire feeds switched battery voltage to both Dyna-S pickup modules.


The wire from left-hand Dyna-S module attaches to left-hand ignition coil that fires outside spark plugs #1 and #4.

The wire from right-hand Dyna-S module attaches to right-hand ignition coil that fires inside spark plugs #2 and #3.

There's a small magnet embedded in the Dyna-S rotor.

As the magnet passes the left-hand pickup module, the left-hand ignition coil's ground connection is broken whereby it fires through outside spark plugs #1 and #4.

As the magnet passes the right-hand pickup module, the right-hand ignition coil's ground connection is broken whereby it fires through inside spark plugs #2 and #3.



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I have spark. It still won't start. I think I have a timing chain problem. It's the only thing left. Anyone have a link to the procedure? with pictures preferably. Thank you all.

i run a 5/16" single feed petcock to my RS34's on my kz1200.
i ran a 1/4" single feed to my vm29's on my kz1135.

a dual feed pingle will not help.
u need to figure out why u r not getting fuel to #3,and 4 carbs.