TOPIC:

so i put my exhaust on a few nights ago and its super lose... i used the two stupid shims on each header and its still lose as shit! am i missing something or is this normal?

When you say shim, do you mean the crush washer?
You should only need one per cylinder.
There should be the one crush washer, the two half pieces that go around the exhaust flange and the round clamp. The round clamp goes over the two studs and when tightened down will push the two half pieces and the exhaust flange into the crush washer.
From Kawasaki.com
Select a model, then when the pick list appears, click Mufflers.

Also be sure that your exhaust collar flanges are facing the right way....
Is that what you called the "two stupid shims"?

it is common to need 2 crush washers on some aftermarket headers. Z1e carries thicker ones as well.

The flanged ends of the split collars are supposed to fit into the recess in the clamp.












Installation of exhaust system.

Assure the old exhaust gaskets are removed from the head, as they are sometimes so encrusted into the head you don't realize they're still there.

Would also check for a second old gasket encrusted in the exhaust port. Sometimes, two old gaskets are used during reassembly instead of one new gasket.

Would always use new copper crush gaskets.

Usually the split collars are okay to reinstall (after cleaning with wire brush).

After removing all old gaskets, and cleaning the engine exhaust port recess areas with q-tips and acetone, use a dab of Permatex high-temp copper silicone to hold each new gasket in its place inside the port. Let the Permatex set up for a few minutes so it will hold the gaskets in place while you're busy keeping all the collars and clamps together and pushing the header into position without parts falling all over. For me, using grease in lieu of the Permatex is just too messy and imo less effective toward enhancing the seal.

Fit a pair of split collars onto each header pipe with the small non-flared end pointing toward the engine to press against the flared ends of the header pipes. The flared ends of the split collars fit into recesses in the exhaust clamps.

In other words, the split collars are positioned with the plain end abutting the header flange and with the other end (the curved end) snugly fitted inside the clamp channel. Sometimes it requires some maneuvering to assure close snug fit at the clamp/collar interface.

If preferred, may use masking tape or rubber bands to hold the split collars in place together on the pipe during the installation.
Then it's much easier to lift and maneuver the header into position when only having to fool with the clamps and assuring fitment at all the clamp/collar interfaces.

So with exhaust clamps hanging loosely around header pipes and new copper gaskets fitted inside the head recesses with a dab of hi-temp sealant holding them in position, and split collars taped in position, hold the headers in place on the head against the gaskets.

While holding everything in position, loosely start the clamp holder nuts onto the exhaust studs, and assure all parts being properly fitted and aligned before tightening the exhaust stud nuts against the collars.

Clamps press against split collars.

Split collars press against header flanges.

Header flanges press against copper gaskets.

Good luck with the installation.

And for those using rubber bands in lieu of masking tape to hold split collars in position during installation:




Good Fortune!