Lobe centers

Okay guys, it's winter time here in northeast indiana so it's time to start messing with the bike again. I'm currently running the setup in my signature but just to put it up here, it's a 10.25:1 1075, stage one head from Larry, and k410 cams. Currently the cams are set to APE's specs which if I recall is 107.5/108.5 for lobe centers. The bike makes good power now but I want to get more out of it. Anybody have any suggestions for lobe centers? It actually runs really well now I just wanna move the power into a more street friendly position since it doesn't really start building a good head of steam until I get around 6-7k. Which brings up another question, exactly how hard can I safely rev this motor since I've been obeying the redline on the tach. Sorry for being long winded.

an easy way to remember what the lobe center changes will do, is think of low rpm's and low LC #'s.
so, if u decrease BOTH lcs #s (smaller #'s) your torque curve moves lower.
dont expect dramatic results. if u want bigger changes u need to change cams. less overlap = more compresion= more torque.
u wont get more power, just move the power around.untill u get to far from the designed #s, then u may loose power.
Larry would be able to give u more info on this. web cam has some info on there site, as do most cam manufacturers. but only u can deside what feels right for u, through trial.
as for reving higher. that depends on the wheight of your valve train and lift and spring strength. again, talk to Larry. if u have stock valves and Heavy springs u should be able to go to 10,000rpm with those cams.asuming u have ample valve to piston clearance. if the head has been decked then u are on your own.the other thing u need to know is, can u make power up to 10,000rpm? if it doesnt breath enough up there, there is no point reving that high.again, Larry has the #s for your ports.

Yeah, I know I'm not gonna pick up huge power mark, I really just wanna move it more towards the street friendly version to improve low rpm response. As far as the valve train it's +1 intakes stock exhaust and I'm sure Larry put good springs in it. It is still pulling hard at 10k that's why I wonder how much harder I can rev it without hurting anything. What about changing the ignition timing up a little? My foxbody runs 16 deg (stock is 10). Can I advance it on the bike for more power still? I'm really wanting to go 1197 but can't justify it until my motor breaks so I plan to wring its little neck for all it's worth.

I hear the 1200cc motors have a lot of low end torque :evil: :whistle:

u said u were obeying the red line, now u say it makes power to 10,000rpm. so thats what u call obeying? LOL :evil:

I would talk that over with Larry.
the guy only that knows that answer is the guy that , is a guy with the same cams , valves and springs, reved it to far.
I would not go past 10,000 unless u get a dif answer from that guy.
I have hit my pistons at 11000 rpm’s with old springs. I have 37.5mm valves and .424” lift cams.
as far as timing goes. without a dyno its trial and error. are u just running on the track ?
just take it from 40* to 39 to 38. listen for ping, under load, say going up a hill at mid rpm's.unless u have a good ignition i would leave it at 40*. i use a Dyna 2000.it has an electronic advance curve. i run at 39* but havent bothered to play with it. some run the 2 mid (2,3) cylinders dif to help cool them.
i use mine on the street mostly, and road race track occasionally.

Andy,

I had a nice reply all typed up and this GD laptop ate my post :woohoo:

This keyboard totally sucks canal water!!!! I f'n hate it!!!!!

Anyway....now that's out of the way.....

If you want the most peak torque, close up the centers. If you want the torque spread out more, push them apart.

I'd say 106 on both will yield the highest peak number. 110 would spread it out more. We're talking about changes that would be most noticeable in a time slip.

Pulling a tight center on the intake can setup detonation with the crap fuel we have today. This shit is marginal at best....

its a street legal drag bike for all intents and purposes mark. I've got a dyna s with accel coils and wires. I plan to switch to dyna greens and taylor wires this winter. The timing is set to stock right now and I'm not sure that I can even change the timing enough to make it worth it with the current ignition. As far as the redline statement, I figure it registers to 11k that must be where bad shit starts to happen. :ohmy:

andy9802gt wrote: I figure it registers to 11k that must be where bad shit starts to happen. :ohmy:

OH Yea. Been there, but got lucky. :pinch: when i took it apart there was big smile marks on the pistons and bent valves. :pinch:

LarryC wrote: Andy,

I had a nice reply all typed up and this GD laptop ate my post :woohoo:

This keyboard totally sucks canal water!!!! I f'n hate it!!!!!

I have taken to writting in word so i can copy any paste. for the same reason. :laugh:

DoubleDub wrote: I hear the 1200cc motors have a lot of low end torque :evil: :whistle:

Yeah, my brother, badkz77 on here, runs a 900 based 1230, that is fawking scary fast. It makes my bike look like a 150cc roketa scooter. Thats what I'm after! :evil:

Maybe this will help....

cam-degreeing-for-zombies

mark1122 wrote:

LarryC wrote: Andy,

I had a nice reply all typed up and this GD laptop ate my post :woohoo:

This keyboard totally sucks canal water!!!! I f'n hate it!!!!!

I have taken to writting in word so i can copy any paste. for the same reason. :laugh:

:woohoo: If you knew just how many times that happens to me. I think it's that stupid Widows key or the Function key in combination with a letter.....Whatever it is, it will absolutely wipe out everything I typed or close the browser tab altogether...same effect :sick: