An odd Rattle...

/me has broken off extractors before... Where would I find a reversed bit? Also, oil was black when I took it out prior to attempting to pull the cover. This would be the oil I just put in yesterday and has less than 5min of run time.

Left handed drill bits: www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3680643

Robwolf wrote: ...Could the oil be gunked up....?

Robwolf wrote: ...oil was black when I took it out prior to attempting to pull the cover. This would be the oil I just put in yesterday and has less than 5min of run time.

Fresh oil is likely assimilating some old residual sludge inside the engine, much of which is probably forming a primordial ooze on bottom of the crankcase.

Changing and re-changing the oil (and filter) between running to normal operating temperature may gradually dispel some of the sludge. Perhaps with some type or brand of thinner oil or maybe by adding some proprietary brand of "cleaner" to the new oil.

Best to drain the oil when it's hot.

There might be some feasible method to help rinse out the sludge, perhaps in the earlier noted links:
www.armbell.com/forum/index.php?c=6&sid=...571a51a&mforum=kz400
www.kz400.com/

Good Fortune!

If the Left hand reverse drill doesn't work, just drill to remove the Head of the screw. Once the Head is gone, the cover will pull off, as long as it doesn't hit something like the frame. Then a Vicegrip, or stud wrench can grab the shank of the old screw.
Sounds like pulling the oil pan for an inspection, and at least cleaning, would be a Very good Idea. Sludge can block/ restrict the oil pump intake, causing low pressure/ volume in the motors oil gallies.

Well Patton just informed me that the 440 has no removable Oil Pan, so scratch that.
But Sludge would still be a oiling issue.

I did add some seafoam to the batch of oil that just went in, wasn't expecting it to pick up stuff so fast, especially not without any real chance to cycle. I'll have to get some fresh oil and put more in. Good thing there is an ace right around the corner where I can get a bit.

Robwolf wrote: I did add some seafoam to the batch of oil that just went in, wasn't expecting it to pick up stuff so fast, especially not without any real chance to cycle. I'll have to get some fresh oil and put more in. Good thing there is an ace right around the corner where I can get a bit.

That's why I linked ACE instead of the umpteen other choices. I figure everyone has to have an ACE store fairly close to their house.

As for the black oil, I know my 1000 had a ton of black residue from the clutch in the bottom of the oil pan upon dis-assembly. I'm sure that it would have fairly well fouled new oil as soon as it was poured in. It's normal since the bike has a wet clutch. I'm not sure if repeated oil changes would have removed it or not.

Here's the lower end as shown on kawasaki.com:



Good Fortune!

Robwolf wrote: That's the idle while choked. Normally around high 3k. When warmed up 1500 to 2k is the norm. Anything less than 1500 and it stalls.

1500 - 2000 rpm for a hot idle is far from normal.
Stalling below 1500 is also a good predictor of possibly more serious issues with the engine.

After having adjusted vavles... check compression again and repost numbers here.
I have personally been able to balance and make the 400s purr at around 800rpm or less in some cases, and I believe the recommended is 1000 +/- 100rpm.

You may have a serious carburetor slide imbalance (vacuum), or pilot jet/carb pilot passage blockage throwing things way off. This can make the engine sound like its forging and iron anvil.

As can the timing being too far advanced. Check and set timing exactly to spec with a timing light - other methods are inferior and can produce unbalanced/undesirable results.

With the compression numbers you already posted - I would tear that thing down and start inspecting the cylinders - if no seriously noticable improvement in compression after vavlve adjust.

Good luck.

The sound is more like a chain rolling through teeth, like the sound you get when walking a bike backwards, except louder. It is coming from the lower end. Not from inside the generator cover, just pulled it off and found everything pristine.

Compression shows an even nastier imbalance than before; Right side 155lbs, Left side 95lbs. Bad ring? When I pulled the left plug out I saw a bit of smoke (ran the bike a couple of minutes before to check sound location) but the exhaust only occasionally sputters out smoke, and typically only during start.

Its very tough for me to adjust the carb balance without replacing the crabs because one doesn't have a mix screw anymore, just a wad of trashed brass inside. I've attempted several methods of pulling it, with no luck. I can try to set the one carb to be equal to the stuck one. Both plugs show the same color of dark tan.

When I set the timing chain tension, I didn't notice much movement in the pin, only about a millimeter in and then back to flush, should there be more inwards movement?

TeK9iNe wrote:
"With the compression numbers you already posted - I would tear that thing down and start inspecting the cylinders - if no seriously noticable improvement in compression after vavlve adjust."

Robwolf:
"Compression shows an even nastier imbalance than before; Right side 155lbs, Left side 95lbs. Bad ring? When I pulled the left plug out I saw a bit of smoke (ran the bike a couple of minutes before to check sound location) but the exhaust only occasionally sputters out smoke, and typically only during start."

Time for a tear down, probably a wrecked piston from wrong Ignition timing, to far advanced. Pull it out, and apart. Bummer! But it will all be good again when your done.

Well thats too bad. You cant run with the compression that far off, you'll just wreck the rest of the motor over time.

Pop a couple teaspoons of oil in each cylinder thru pug hole, and turn it over a couple times with starter to disperse oil. Then repeat compression test.

If compression in a cylinder comes up sharply, (much higher compression like 160+) the rings/piston are suspects for replacement.
If the compression only rises marginally (like 20-30psi), then it could just be a leaking/warped valve or damaged valve seat.

Good luck.

Anyone want a 79 kz400 with bad motor? Just kidding. Guess the real fun starts tuesday. Gotta get my vulcan back in road shape so I have something. It only needs solenoid and magneto. Got one need to order the more expensive. I'll be sure to post pics of the kzs ugly guts when they come out. Also would like new[er] carbs suggestions? Street use commuter with highway in route.