Adjusting The Clutch: '81 KZ 750 LTD

I did a job that required removal of the clutch plates. When I got it all back together, I had to adjust the screw at the lower left side of the bike that ensures proper engagement of the clutch, then tighten up the clutch cable, allowing for a bit of play when you squeeze the clutch.
The manual says to turn the clutch adjusting screw clockwise “until it’s hard to turn“, then back it out one half turn
When I did that, it took quite a few turns until it became “hard to turn”
Following these directions, the clutch didn’t engage at all
It wasn’t until I turned the screw quite a few turns counter clockwise, that I could get it to engage at all
I am concerned that the screw may not be adjusted properly

Try this procedure:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES, or any wires from the alternator), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

I recall there's a small round steel ball that likes to fall out and get lost when tearing down the clutch.

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