Cam chain adjustment

found this on the web!

First off, you'll need a new cam cover gasket if the original is still on. You can re-use the rubber half moon end plugs. Use a light coat of silicone or Hylomar on the end plugs for a tight seal. Make sure you scrape the gasket surfaces clean and put the new cam cover gasket on dry except for where the gasket meets the rubber end plugs. You'll also need a torque wrench to tighten the cam cover and cam caps if you remove the cams. A beam type that reads in "inch lbs." is perfect. They're 3/8" drive and I use a CraftsMan for all setting of less than 156 in lbs. (13 ft lbs.). To find "in lbs. " multiply "ft lbs. times 12 = in lbs.". Here's a trick I use on the 1981 and later models that use a wedge type cam chain tensioner. After removing the valve cover and with the pistons all lined up somewhat equally (midway between the stroke.... remove ignition pick up cover on right side and turn engine clockwise to get into this position.), I push down" hard "on the cam chain between both cams forcing the cam chain tensioner back and rolling the intake cam forward. Now that you have a large amount of chain slack between both cams, remove the small 6mm (1.0mm pitch) bolt from the cam chain tensioner (right side) and replace with a bolt that is 1" (or 40mm) long. You have to modify the bolt so that it has some what of a point on the end with a bench grinder or a file. If you have a metric thread file (Snap- On model TFM 7530B ) you can clean up the threads. Or you can thread two nuts onto the bolt before trimming and try to clean and reform the threads after shaping. Now screw this modified bolt tight into the side of the tensioner to lock the push rod down into its compressed position. Now the cams can be removed with the tensioner in place because the tensioner push rod is locked in the backed off position.

Cam cover and cam cap bolts are much faster and easier removed and replaced with an electric screw driver ( "NOT" electric drill). Follow a service manual for checking valve clearances and cam installation. I remove the spark plugs so that the motor can easily be turned over, and cover each spark plug hole opening with a rag so that no debris can fall into the cylinder. Once you have the cams reinstalled, remove the longer 6mm lock bolt in the tensioner and reinstall the short bolt so that the pressure can be applied to the cam chain. Now, Slowly turn the engine forward to check your cam installation as explained in the service manual.

On the latter models, before replacing the cam cover, notice a rubber cushion on the inside of the cam cover that pushes against the cam chain between the cams. If you were to put the cam cover on with the chain pulled taunt between the cams, you'll notice that the rubber cushion will keep the cam cover from resting flatly on the head mating surface. To make the cam cover go on properly, again push down on the cam chain between the cams to get a little bit of slack in the chain. Now if the cover fits against the head mating surface, install, tighten and torque the cover in place. When finished slowly turn the motor clockwise slightly to take up the cam chain slack that remains once the cover has been reinstalled. When you first remove the cam cover the first time to do any service " Take Notice "as to the free play in the cam chain between the cams after the cover is removed and the motor has not been turned over. This free play is the equivalent of 4 degrees of cam timing. YES, the intake cams are off 4 degrees in timing from the factory. For those of you that have slotted their cam sprockets and degreed the cams, the intake cam needs to be set to 109 degrees and will actually be 105 degrees once the cam cover is reinstalled.

Does anyone else do this when refitting?

Umm, do what exactly? Push down on the cam chain?

Also, what bike are we talking about?

Some of the info above is not correct (or at least not complete). The guy says (snipped):

" Here's a trick I use on the 1981 and later models that use a wedge type cam chain tensioner..... I push down "hard" on the cam chain between both cams forcing the cam chain tensioner back and rolling the intake cam forward."


You can not force the cross wedge tensioner back that way, for the KZs that use the cross wedge tensioner (1000J and GPz 1100 engines spring to mind) the tensioner cap must be removed and the wedge pulled out in order to press back the tensioner plunger. The wedge, spring and cap should not be reinstalled until you have the valve cover bolted down.

Also look out for the Torque setting on the Camshaft bearing caps. Don't go 12 foot pounds, broken bolts or pulled threads will be the result. There are several threads on this very subject.

Edit: Even a current thread, kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/454493-well-that-didnt-work#454514

It was pulled from someone talking about setting the cam timing on a kz750. I've just fitted gpz cams onto the 84 kz head. Just wondered if people pushed down on the cam chain as he suggests, or fit as the manual instructs and torque as per the current thread.

I do two things differently when messing with the cams... 90 in-lbs is as far as I'll go on torquing the bearing caps and I torque all of the caps down almost at the same time. Once I get the left cam caps bolted in a little, I'll wiggle the cam shaft side to side to make sure that it is set into the alignment guides, but after that I'll alternate tightening the bolts so that they come down evenly. I think this helps keep the bolts from stripping out of the head.

Tuber wrote: It was pulled from someone talking about setting the cam timing on a kz750. I've just fitted gpz cams onto the 84 kz head. Just wondered if people pushed down on the cam chain as he suggests, or fit as the manual instructs and torque as per the current thread.

I've had the cam cover off my 750/4 a number of times to check the valves but cant remember anything special in getting the cover back on. I'm familiar with the rubber cushion inside the cam cover which presses down on the cam chain. I am pretty sure I just followed the manual (Haynes).