Kawasaki Z1000 Mk. II Valve Clearance Issues

My dad and I are in the process of putting his Z1000 Mk. II (1980) back together and we've run into a few problems.

Namely, it will barely start and it won't run unless the choke is completely out. And it can't rev. We took the tappet cover off and checked the timing and valve clearances. The timing seems fine, but the inlet and exhaust valves of cylinders 2 and 3 have no clearance (even with the smallest thickness on the feeler gauge). This was also reflected in the compression test that we did. 2 and 3 where approximately 200kPa lower than 1 and 4.

So now, we want to remove the shims from the valves on cylinders 2 and 3, so that we can give them clearance. We have a shim tool, but no idea how to use it. It's one of those that clamps on the side of the head. (see picture attached)

If anyone can give us some information on how to use this tool it will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Sam

from what i know of that tool you use it to hold down the bucket then back motor up just enough to pull shim out,dont back it up too far though

wireman is right.use a wrench on the 17 mm.nut under your ignition cover to turn the crank which turns the cams and push down the bucket that you are shimming.then install this tool to hold the bucket down by setting on the edge of the bucket.then use a pick to lift the shim up and get it out.they have some sticktion from the oil film trying to hold them in.

leon

Welcome to a fellow MKll owner...You will find small bosses on the cylinder head casting at each valve that the screw of your bucket holder tool fits to.The recess on the curved tip fits over the outer edge of the bucket to hold it in place. As long as you have clearance,rotate the buckets so the gap is easily accessed and you'll find it easier to get the shim out with a pick or magnet.

perfect description jack thanks.

leon

Thanks guys, will let my dad know. I'm really glad I found this forum. I have a feeling you're all going to be of great help!

Sam