TOPIC:

Although not the main point, this article makes some interesting statements about ethanol and small engines that I think largely apply to carbureted motorcycles, too.

www.imsa.com/news/052019/vp-fuels-not-ju...fuel-company-anymore

I watched a few videos of guys removing ethanol from pump gas. It's incredibly easy to do (basically just add water to the gas and shake) and I will be doing this next time I mix up some 2-stroke gas for my chainsaw.

Might not be a bad idea to do the same thing for when the bike is going to sit in the off season... Run it out of pump gas, put some non ethanol gas in it (probably with Stabil) and run it for a few miles to flush out the ethanol, and store it.

jlaudiofan wrote.:
watched a few videos of guys removing ethanol from pump gas. It's incredibly easy to do (basically just add water to the gas and shake) and I will be doing this next time I mix up some 2-stroke gas for my chainsaw.

Do you have any Video link, (YouTube)???

jlaudiofan wrote: ..................Might not be a bad idea to do the same thing for when the bike is going to sit in the off season... Run it out of pump gas, put some non ethanol gas in it (probably with Stabil) and run it for a few miles to flush out the ethanol, and store it.

Or as an alternative just start the bike up once a week and let it idle for 10 minutes or so. That not only prevents and carb gum problems it also keeps oil on the cylinder walls and keeps the battery charged. I've done this with my KZ650 for many years, and it's easy to do. Also, when spring arrives there's never an issue about getting the bike ready to ride. Ed

Is this a sponsored "news" story? The article just says ethanol causes damage leading to costly repairs & it seems to be an advertisement for a custom fuel supplier.


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I think it is clearly intended to promote a sponsor of the series, but I am not sure that automatically makes all their claims false. This issue has caused some heated discussion on other sites between folks who say that ethanol does no damage, and those who say we might as well pour hydrochloric acid in our tanks.
Personally, I am not sure. The nearest non-ethanol pump to me is 18 miles away, and is it quite expensive. I have been using nothing but e-10 for quite a few years. I have had absolutely no fuel related problems in my vehicles or my lawn equipment. That includes a supercharged Saleen that was only driven occasionally. I have had quite a bit of trouble with carbureted motorcycles any time they sit unridden for more than 4 or 5 weeks.
I think there is no doubt that e-10 produces less power and that it is hygroscopic and that it may accelerate carbon buildup in combustion chambers. Beyond that, I am not sure.

I use marine version Stabil in the gas for my bike and the garage storage can. Seems to be working well.

I'm not a fan of Ed's method of running his bike periodically through the winter because a lot of condensation is created in the engine and exhaust system. Kawasaki recommends draining the tank and carbs for storage. Suzuki (GS bikes) recommend using fuel stabilizer and filling the tank all the way to the top. There is more than one way to do things (obviously).

Nessism wrote: .................I'm not a fan of Ed's method of running his bike periodically through the winter because a lot of condensation is created in the engine and exhaust system. Kawasaki recommends draining the tank and carbs for storage. Suzuki (GS bikes) recommend using fuel stabilizer and filling the tank all the way to the top. There is more than one way to do things (obviously).

I suspect the key is to let the bike run until the mufflers get pretty warm. At that point the condensation is gone. I've done it this way for 42 years (since the bike was new) and never had any problems; so far - so good. Ed

If you warm it up to full operating temperature, then that would be pretty much the same as if the motorcycle was ridden. Probably how some guys err is that they just run the engine for a minute or two.


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Our 1978 Honda Hobbit 49cc. moped and our 2-stroke weedeater run noticeably better on pure gas vs. 10% ethanol fuel. Both require premix. That's all we can say for sure, other than we've observed plastic & rubber fuel system parts deterioration we can associate with 10% ethanol fuel.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

The OEM mufflers have water condensation drain holes which often get plugged up by rust flakes. And once that happens the internal rotting issue accelerates. Be careful...

The proof is actually in the oil. If you are in the habit of running your bike during the off season to stir up the oil a good way to know if you are getting things warm enough to get rid of the moisture is to check your sight glass if your oil sight glass is milky you're not getting up to temperature. Keep in mind that in most motorcycle engines the oil also lubricates the transmission and that means that the internal volume of the engine and transmission is really huge and all of that metal and oil need to be heated enough to drive off the moisture.
Bill