TOPIC:

Using the FSM. I left it at work, next to the engine. I could've sworn I read it right, but I can of course always be wrong. I will totally re-read everything tomorrow though.

You may have read it correctly. I seem to remember some discussion on this board about an error on the cam cap torque in one or more of the manuals. Ed

Searching through the forum I found a post by you, from a bit back:
"KZ250LTD wrote:
650ed wrote:
KZ250LTD wrote:
650ed wrote:
When working on the bike always follow the torque recommendations shown in the Kawasaki service manual using quality torque wrenches of the appropriate scales. (i.e. don't try to use a foot pound torque wrench to tighten to inch pound settings). This will prevent you from becoming too familiar with Time-Serts or Heli-Coils. Ed


Except for the recommendations that are wrong


That's why I specified the Kawasaki Service Manual as opposed to Clymer, Haynes, or some other aftermarket manual. Obviously I can't speak for all manuals, but none of the torque specs in the KZ650 Kawasaki Service Manuals I have (3 different ones) are wrong. If there are known torque spec mistakes in the manuals for other models perhaps KZRIDER can create a forum in which to list them. Ed


As TexasKZ mentioned above in some of the KZ1000 FSM's the torque specs for the cam caps are too high. Manual states 12ft-lbs, should be MAX of 90 in-lbs (7.5ft-lbs). A few of us have learned this the hard way


12 ft lbs. Yikes! The KZ650 manual calls for 95-113 in lbs. I've always set mine at 100 in lbs with no problems; but I'm sure if I tried 12 ft lbs I'd be buying a timesert kit. Maybe KZRIDER can make a stickey or Forum group under "Technical" where these errors can be documented. Ed"

Well, since I already drilled out all the holes for the Helicoils, they will all have brand new threads and be installed to the correct torque. Thanks Ed. You're saving me from myself!

Helicoils installed. All brand new threads, just waiting to fulfill their purpose in life. What a wonderful thing! I had planned to get everything installed and to check my valve clearances today, but the mechanic who was helping me out couldn't come into work today. In and of itself, no problem, I can put everything back together myself, but what I was hoping for his help on was a trick he was going to teach me to check valve clearances without having to bolt the head on to the engine. You see, when I removed the buckets from the valves, I ACCIDENTALLY forgot to label where they all came from. So It's pretty hit or miss as to me picking the correct one for each valve. I really don't want to install everything, and then have to try to change the shims on the buckets... No, I didn't get the special tool to do it, and I'm kinda broke, so I couldn't afford to get it anyways. I tried to do it on my own, but I couldn't seem to get the cam to line up right for me to measure correctly. And it is soooo not the easiest thing in the world to turn by hand... Any tips?

Also, seeing as how my leg in the relay is 3 weeks away, I decided that trying to cut the frame and lower the rear end would probably not be the best idea right about now. I still feel like the ride height is right about there, but I do like the feeling of being more "in" the bike, as opposed to riding on top of it; so it may be something I do later. But for now, getting it back together and running is the priority. And who knows, I may come to really like the way this bike rides. I can't wait to find out!

I can't really afford to keep taking days off of work to do work on the bike, and working on it for 4 hours while work is open on Saturdays is not going to get it done in time.... As of right now, I still think it can be done. I don't know how, but I look forward to finding out.

Did some more engine work this weekend. Bolted the head on and made the mistake of not labeling which valve my buckets and shims came off of, so I am going to have to figure it out. I figure if I measure all the shims, and then check my valve clearances, I can then put the right shims in the right place. Easy enough right? I thought so, until my engine decided not to want to turn over... HMMMMM.... My chain is seated properly, I have the 28th pin where it should be, and my tensioner is in place with the idler gear on top... The ratchet will move from about 12 O'clock to about 3, and then it wants to hang up on something. I can't see anything impeding it, the gears move freely, and it's in neutral...
I'm going to take the cams out and try turning the crank to see if I have freedom of movement first, then try bolting everything back into place, again.
Ah well, it's these set backs that make the accomplishments so worthwhile eh?

Do have the buckets and shims installed before rotating? do not rotate with no buckets and shims you can do damage to the cam, buckets etc. Sound like it will be fun to sort out.

Yeah, the buckets and shims were installed before I tried to rotate it. I did however notice that 1 of the shims came out. Guess I popped it out somehow when I was installing the cam. Thanks for reminding me. I had forgotten to mention that.
I didn't force anything, and when I felt the resistance, I stopped. But I will definitely make sure it's back in place before I proceed. Thanks for catching that mate.

Hope its something simple! The only thing that pops to mind is mistimed cams which would mean valve/piston contact but it sounds like you took your time so I doubt that is the problem. All the best on sorting it out!

Do you remember those moments when you did a minor mistake, over and over, that really frustrated the living daylights out of you? If not, then try to do your timing without putting your engine at TDC first! It turns out that I was lining up on the wrong "T"! Grrrrr!!! On the good side, I have gotten pretty good at taking the cams in and out, and lining everything up again. I think I might have been doing it in a dream last night too.... Anyways, thanks to my buddy, we caught that problem and went on to measure the valve clearances.
Did the first round of measuring and then switched out the shims. Put everything back together where they will "I hope" be in the right place. Torqued everything down again to measure and another problem came up. As I rotate the crank, there is a "ting" like popping sound coming from the engine. So I'm going back today to try to sus it out. But 4 hours goes by SOOOO quick!

I'll write more later as to where I get.

Went back to work on my engine today and started off by taking the cams out. With the cams out, I removed the buckets and inspected all I could see, and could find nothing wrong. So I measured the shims I had, wrote down the values and locations and went to work playing the shuffle game to see if I could make my shims work. So far, I have 7 of 8 valves within spec. The one not playing nice is just too tight. I don't know how 1 of them is off, but I didn't have enough time to try again, so it'll have to wait till Monday.
Hopefully if I can get this sorted, I can bolt the engine back together and get it back in the frame. From there, it's on to fabricating the brackets for the forward controls and getting the exhaust mocked up and welded together. I'm hoping I can get all that done in a day, and then I'll bring the bike home and work on the wiring here at the house.

I've been off a motorcycle WAY too long!!!

I never really tire of being an optimist, but sometimes it can be pretty discouraging. The good news-- My engine is all together!!! It turns over nice and smooth, and every valve is within spec. I'm stoked! After re-measuring all the shims again, I came to the conclusion that there was no way I could rearrange everything to fit, so I had to get a new shim. Thanks be to God, there was a motorcycle shop not to far away, so I cruised on over and got there 30 minutes before they opened. As grace would have it, there happened to be a mechanic outside smoking. We got to chatting and he asked me what I was there for. I showed him my shim and said I needed a smaller size. He went inside and came out with what I needed and told me, "Here ya go." Perfect.
Engine reassembly went well till I was bolting on the head cover and had the threads pull loose. Helicoil to the rescue! Round 2-- On the last bolt, it strips out the threads too... Another helicoil later... Round 3-- Everything goes together nicely and bada bing, engine's done!!!

I only got to re-grease the back wheel though. I didn't have time to reinstall the engine unfortunately. Oh well, to be continued.

Just for hypothetical purposes, say you had a shaft drive, and ACCIDENTALLY couldn't find the wee spring pin that goes in to lock the final drive output to the actual shaft drive... Would that be a big deal??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure what "spring" you are referring to but... yes, if it was there originally then it's needed!



If #6 then you HAVE to have that, just remember next time that zip-lock baggies are your friend!