TOPIC:

i am going to try to paint my gas tank with a spray can type of paint. i am looking for some step by step guides on how to do it.. from taking off the old paint to waxing it so in other words from start to finsh....
i did it a few years ago with spray paint looked good and but a clear coat on top but after a few fill ups the paint started to run and look like crap...
any way to not let this happen or should i just spend the 2-300 and have it sent out to be painted

I just painted my tank and other parts and love it.

And yes, if your time and money are important to you, you should just send it out and have it done.

Doing it yourself will result in a less than perfect (I've come to appreciate the flaws in my work),
less durable (unless you use special clearcoat which I am looking into right now),
softer finish that is much more susceptible to ultra-violet that took a whole lot of time to do.

I have spent more time and money in the long run, but would have it no other way. You know, this bike has a good amount of "done by me" in it. Wouldn't have it any other way.

There are some step by steps out there for paint. But The pre-paint threads did not make themselves easily obvious.

Didn't you have the frame painted yellow? Did you do that yourself? It seemed a good job is all.

what would you say is better to do ? i was going to take the bike all apart and totalt re-do it .. but i am going to wait a few more years i just want to give it a nice loking paint job to make it look 1/2 way desent... want to built up my parts i need 1st this way i have all the stock parts i need befor i start to re-do it ....

If I was going to do it again, I might just get a nice small can of good quality flat black and some preval sprayers and do it that way. Flat paint is MUCH easier to do and to make look professional.

An old prehistoric character that used to hang around here laid it out for the rest of us rattle can wanna be's, myself included. My description of his art might just bring him to the surface once again.

Here goes:

Almost all rattle can paints cure by drying. Professional paints also cure by drying but they are catalyzed. That means that not only do they get hard because their solvents evaporate but they also undergo a chemical reaction similar to an epoxy. What this means is that in order to make rattle can finishes soft again all you have to do is to expose them to any appropriate solvent. Hence avoid over filling your tank unless you intend to repaint it. Catalyzed paints have undergone an additional reaction that makes them more resistant to solvents.

The moral of the story is that rattle can paint jobs are seldom resistant to gasoline.

KZCSI

Yea, the whole gas thing sux. Apparently there are better clear coats that are epoxy.

The half-way decent thing reeks of rattle can job to me. It was an education at least.

I have had good luck with PJ1 epoxy clear coat, and, believe it or not, my newest paint job is Rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can....gloss black. Unfortunately, appliance epoxy is only available in black and white, but as far as rattle can goes, I've never had a job turn out so well, and be gas proof. I spilled a large amount of gas on the tank due to a "cough" in the hose. not a single smudge or soft spot.

Just my $0.02

But I can say that until I can afford an HVLP gun and a compressor again, I'll be painting my new project bike (1980 kz 1000)with the appliance epoxy

FireFighterRon, Do you have a TrueValue hardware store near you?

If so, they sell a REALLY good enamel paint there called XO-Rust. It takes about a good 12 hours to air dry, but if you have a set of halogen shop lights you can place them about 3 feet away and heat cure the paint in about 6 hours.

The paint it self, had a really nice gloss to it, and is not prone to runs. I have used it in the past with great results. It also takes to being clear coated with Lacquer very well too.

Do 4-5 light coats about ever 1/2 hour before putting under the lights though.

Here is an example of how good it can look, but my guess is they used quart cans, and a sprayer.
www.hotrodsandclassics.net/viewerpicpages/064picvi.htm

Not sure you reviewed my posting and I'm not a professional painter by any means but after figuring the speed and distance out, some trial and error it really isn't that difficult to accomplish a real decent job.

Can Paint form Auto Parts stores: Checkers/AutoZone
Black: Dupli Color Acrylic Enamel
Orange: Dupli Color Metal Cast Orange (& used Metal Cast Ground base, think metal flake primer)

These paints went real easy, just follow the can directions, nice spray pattern with no drip or orange peeling.

In following the link, you'll find that the paint itself with some adhesive promoter can be painted directly on chromed pieces. If painting over old paint or non chromed pieces, use the ground base which is somewhat like a metal flaked silver primer... The Metal cast is a translucent color which gives the appearance of anodized.
www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html


Clear Coat:
Sherwin Willams 2 phase Clear Coat.
RS6200 Clear Coat
RS9200 Hardner

Clear Coat 4:1 ratio, I just mixed it in the Preval jar itself...

Home depot/ace hardware/Lowes and paint suppliers have Preval Power Units... Was surprised how well this worked.
It took a couple of tries to get it right for the clear coat with no drips or extreme orange peel but after figuring out speed and distance off the piece, all good.

www.prevalspraygun.com/about.htm

Prep is the key and wet sanding between coats = results that you'll be happy with.

NOTE: For what I paid in paint & prep supplies I could have had this accomplished by a professional but from the start, I wanted to do every inch of my project myself. Outside of boring/honing the cylinder, all by me...

As for Prep work such as bondo, wet sanding, paint etc...
Here's what I've compiled form others work.

members.cox.net/ruinsofstei/Tank%20Painting.pdf

Hope this helps,

Old man Rock