TOPIC:

Yes. Oil light and neutral light comes on. There was nothing before that. 

I'm not concerned if it runs.
It most likely will if the lights come on and the starter will turn.

But you will need to replace the wires involved with your short circuit fire.
They have all been compromised.

The red/white wire from battery positive terminal to 20amp fuse
The white wire from the battery 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch.
The brown wire from the ignition switch to the ignition switch connector.
The brown wire from the ignition switch connector to your horn.

Your new 20 amp fuse holder with thick red wire will need to remain in circuit.


 

Brilliant!! Thank you. 

Do you know… Is there a post here to explain how to remove the ignition switch? 

I think I remove the headlamp and there are two Allen key bolts. Is that right?

O, and how do I remove old and insert new wires into the connectors? Is it possible, or do I simply by pass them with a m/f crimp pin and socket?

you can just bypass the connector.
 

There is a service manual on the internet.
Just google
service manual kz440
The manual has a purple cover

Page 133

There is also a 440 manual here.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/kz440.pdf

yep!
same one.
look at page 133

I’ve replaced all the wires as recommended, except those from ignition switch to ignition 4-way connector, and it’s looking good. 

One new problem though. I dismantled the ignition switch to replace the wire, and like all comedic mishaps, a spring sprung and out popped the asymmetric white plastic piece that controls the bolt that I guess applies a steering lock. 

I’ve reassembled the switch the best I could, however the bolt protrudes right out in the Off position. I’m sure that’s wrong but I couldn’t get the white piece properly positioned otherwise, AND reassemble the switch. It can only fit two ways, given the cut of the spindle it attaches to. 

my key only turns to Off and On. It won’t shift into a steering lock position. 

I’m loathed to take it apart again and share pictures, unless someone here can advise me. I’ve not put the ignition switch back on the bike yet. I suspect I’ll be unable to do so with the bolt protruding. 

any advice appreciated. 

 

That’s everything fixed. Even the ignition switch. 

Thank you all. 

one last question before I close the topic. 

I used chocolate box connectors and thinking in due course, because the are bulky, replace with crimped connectors. Does anyone know if there is Amp ratings for crimp terminals? I have a set with 3 different sizes. See picture. The associated numbers don’t seem to relate to current. I wonder if it’s simply a case of, if the wire fits, and the insulation butts up against the internal metal, it’s by definition fit for purpose. 

 

Cheers

Pretty much amp rated by wire size.
Just use the connector that fits the wire size the best and you should be fine.
Good job on fixing the problems!