TOPIC:

No it isn't, the two 10amp fuses should be ignition live ! How long have you had the bike (it looks like someone has done strange things to overcome the problem with the 20amp fuse !!!)

The fuse voltages are actually backwards.
The 20amp red wire-red wire fuse should be 12v all of the time.

The 10amp fuses should be 0.0v until your turn your key to "run"

When I get home I'll look at the schematic somemore.
You may have to do some wire tracing to figure out how things are wired.

Your kill switch is not receiving any power which would explain the dead bike.

That 4 wire connector may be on your handlebar on the right side. The wires go to the switches on the right side of the bar.

 

Actually, don't worry about that handlebar connector yet.

You have bigger problem with the ignition switch connector.
That connector needs to have power before anything else.

You may have to look and see where the previous owner modified the wiring.
What wire colors does the blade fuse(red wire-red wire) splice into?
You may need to unwrap the white tape.

Ignore the fuses in the green box. Those are for accessories that you would add to the bike.
They will have power all of the time.
Were the two 10amp fuses that stayed on when the ignition switch off a(red/white wire and a black/white wire?     also a red/white wire and a blue/white wire?)

The big important wire is the white wire from the ignition switch back to the battery.
That wire has power all of the time. You need to find that wire near the fuse box. The previous owner cut that wire and fuse out of the fuse box.


 

Thank you. 

That is curious. By kill switch, do you mean the green circle in my photo? This appears to have been added by a previous owner to replace the function of the switch circled in red. 

In the past, whether that kill switch is off or on, the dashboard lights would come on when the ignition was on. Is that correct? At the moment I get no dashboard lights with the ignition on. And the kill switch ON makes no difference. 

in terms of recent history, I had an electrical fire due to a short and I replaced the 20A fuse with the red-red wire I’ve shared here. I couldn’t source a replacement of the fuse holder that melted, hence the difference fuse. 

part of my work post- the fire was to strip back and reconnect some melted wiring under the tank. It’s been running ok since I did that work, around 4 months ago. I’m now wondering, was some of my work less than perfect, and some wires have recently fused together? 

thanks again for your time and effort here F64 and Wookie. I think I still need it if you can spare the time. 

cheers

Apologies. The first wiring diagram I posted, with the additional 2 fuses was for the wrong model. My bike is not the US model. I’ve posted the correct diagram here. 

The 20A fuse is connected to red/white & white. I removed the white tape and respliced both ends. My previous soldering efforts, which did work, looked a bit poor. 

The 10A fuses are :
white/blue and blue
red/blue and brown/white

This matches the wiring diagram I think. 

I think the first thing is to check the ignition switch plug as F64 has suggested (the 20amp fuse should be powered directly by the battery so should not be influenced by the ignition switch) the white to the ignition switch should have battery voltage constantly regardless of the ignition position. I think you may need to re-visit the repair under the tank and double check against the wiring diagram. What was the short that caused the damage in the first place ?

The extra switch does look like a replacement for the "kill switch" Below is what you should have and how it should operate. The first step is to get the ignition side sorted and identify where the 10amp fuses are getting their supply from (should be from the ignition via the light switch on the right handlebar) 

 

At work now 

The short was the outer sheath of the front brake cable trapped behind horn and shorting across its wires. 

 

I remember your bike now.
I helped you with the horn shorting out and melting your wiring under your tank.
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/618032-bl...a-small-fire?start=0

You really should have cut all of the loom away to inspect that white wire. Most likely that wire's insulation is bad from overheating.
The brown wire from the ignition switch to the horn is compromised as well.
Your key switch may have been damaged internally from the heat.
You basically had a 2 meter electric wire toaster under your fuel tank.

I would run a new white wire of the proper thickness from the fuse to ignition switch.
Also, I would replace the brown wire from the ignition switch to the horn.

I'm going to pass the baton to Wookie.
This needs some rewiring or you'll have another fire.
I may jump back in at a later date.

F64 I just popped my head in as this guy is in the UK so we are in the same time zone. Would appreciate you hanging in there as I am on vacation later this week so won't be around to help. I think this one has a few secrets to tell 

Thanks again both. 

I won’t have much time for a few days to work on this. 

I will undertake the checks you’ve described and remove the tank to inspect and check the loom. 

In the meantime, Wookie, or any other forum members, can you please recommend a UK web store to buy replacement wires that will match the colour coding and spec used in my bike? I tried eBay but couldn’t find identical colour coding. Any advice appreciated. 

The below seem to have a good range of colours ( if not search "auto electrical supplies")

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-1-home...75amp-1mm-sq-14-0-30