TOPIC:

Jimbo68 wrote:

I will undertake the checks you’ve described and remove the tank to inspect and check the loom. 

In the meantime, Wookie, or any other forum members, can you please recommend a UK web store to buy replacement wires that will match the colour coding and spec used in my bike? I tried eBay but couldn’t find identical colour coding. Any advice appreciated. 
 

Hi Jimbo - have you considered replacing the wiring harness? An unmodified OEM loom (even a used one) would eliminate the PO's janky work and the wires will all be the correct colors.

There are a few in Germany on eBay that you can get for under 100 quid; about 20 of that is postage. You also might be able to find a bike breaker in-country who can help.

Good advice Nerdy. 
I bought one on eBay, and it's just this moment arrived. 

Hi there. 

im working on my bike again. 

Here is what I’ve found:
Battery is 13.06 V

ignition off:

20A fuse has 13.06 volts 
Both 10A fuses - 0V
back probe white wire at 4-way ignition connector- 13.06V
disconnect 4-way ignition connector- white wire at battery end - 13.06 V and 20A fuse remains at 13.06V

ignition on:
20A fuse has 0volts 
Both 10A fuses - 0V
back probe white wire at 4-way ignition connector- 0V
disconnect 4-way ignition connector- white wire at battery end - 13.06 V and 20A fuse: 13.06V


 


So in summary, if the ignition switch is switched on, and the white wire is connected to the ignition switch, the white wire loses all voltage. I double checked that at the 20A fuse end, and with the ignition on, the fuse has 0V. 

is it the ignition switch?

I’ve tried bypassing the ignition switch. Same behaviour. Any assistance gratefully received please? I don’t understand what the problem can be. 

 

I'll jump in once I grab a coffee.

Thanks F64. 

im wondering, could the brown be running to ground somewhere?

I bought a KZ440 LTD wiring harness on eBay, so if any wires need replacing, I now have the means 

Is the old harness still on the bike?
 

Yes it is. 

the eBay harness doesn’t quite match my wiring diagram. It’s close but not 100% identical. 

in the meantime, with ignition on, one at a time I’ve disconnected each connector that had a brown wire, to see if the power returns. No joy. 

 

Here's what may be happening.
When the ignition switch is off and you see 13v, it's because there is no load on the circuit.
When the switch is on, the circuit tries to flow current but can't because the white wire can't handle the current.
You need to run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the brown wire at the ignition connector.
This is just to see if the bike turns on.
don't do this permanently without a fuse.

Thanks. I’ll try that. 

Yes - power is ok when I jumper as you describe. 

What do you suggest now please?

So the bike will turn on?
I'm not concerned if it runs.
It most likely will if the lights come on and the starter will turn.

But you will need to replace the wires involved with your short circuit fire.
They have all been compromised.

The white wire from the battery to the ignition switch.
The brown wire from the ignition switch to the ignition switch connector.
The brown wire from the ignition switch connector to your horn.