TOPIC:

If one or other of your elements is "pitiful" then it's doing something.

Sorry, send foul.

Make sure your headlight bulb is good. Bypass the reserve system if it is and see if things change.

Do you know of any non standard wiring, switches or relays that might have been added by a previous owner?

GPzMOD750: I don't know of any non standard wires/switches/relays but I did find this stuffed into the headlight (See first image) I will study what you're talking about and try to get in there ASAP. ALSO---- Notice huge scrape on headlight. Bike has indications if it being dumped allover the right side. Not sure when or by who (wasn't me!!). Could this sort of trauma contribute to all these issues?



So I was directed to a charging system fault finder by Electro Sport:
www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Only had time to work at it a little while last night. Here are my findings:

Battery charge as it sat all night on the trickle charger, 13.45V


As soon as I turned the ignition, the volts dropped within seconds to 12.11V

Below is a picture of the instrument cluster before starting the bike. "headlamp" light on when I first turn ignition with key


Next image is with the bike idling (notice "headlamp" light is OFF)



SOOOO the First step on charging system fault finder is to start and run the motor at 2500 RPM's, measuring Voltage: My measurement was below 13.5V, so onto the wire count for the R/R. As we know, our R/R's generally have 3 yellows, a black, brown and red/white. 4 colors total.

Just to see, I revved up to measure voltage at 5,000 RPM's:

^ Voltage only went up to 13.00V (Lower than the diagrams 14.8V)

Anyways, I am now at the "You've got a permanent magnet alternator system" portion of the fault finder. Going to get back into it tonight.

Has anybody gone through this fault finder? Says to connect black multimeter lead to battery's positive connector, and the red multimeter lead to R/R's red/white wire, all while the bike is idling.

I'm assuming this means to not disconnect the red/white wire.

The bike shut off. At this point, it had been idling for ~15-20 minutes, with me intermittently revving the motor to to test voltage.

I left the ignition/ lights on to continue to test other connections, and the battery dropped to 9.54V, would not crank. When I attempted to start the motor like this, the voltage readings would drop to 2's and come back up.

Threw it back on the trickle and within 10 minutes it was back up to 12.21V. Put it in the garage and drank a beer. Have not tried to start it since.

Please put a fan blowing on the engine if you run the bike in the garage for 15-20 mins.

It was outside!..but will do.

Being outside won't help much, unless it's a really windy day.

I use 2 small fans. One aimed at 1-2 & a second fan aimed at 3-4. My exhaust system is nice, so I don't want to blue it.

martin_csr wrote: My exhaust system is nice, so I don't want to blue it.

Yes indeed, your exhaust system is NICE! I'm jealous!

Update for those wondering:

I bit the bullet and sourced an Electro Sport R/R from Amazon, considerably cheaper than MSRP on ES website.

Most recently, I had installed the R/R off a 2009 Ninja 500.

The Electrosport R/R's heat sink unit was perhaps a half inch wider at most. Still fit fine. Had to move a red wire over to match with my bike's connection. Other than that, only difference was a missing light brown wire on the new R/R. I've read this brown wire runs to a switched battery voltage connection. Please correct me if I'm wrong but this would monitor the voltage being sent/ returned to the battery ?

After installation, my bike fired right up! I took it for a spin - it was awesome to feel the wind again.

Battery is holding steady voltage instead of the massive drops it was doing before. I've been able to start it a handful of times on the first attempt and it seems to idle more consistently. Is there any truth to the claims that a new R/R would help performance? My bike did feel more responsive at the throttle and even better acceleration. I hadn't really ridden in about 10 days so perhaps a placebo effect? I have also changed spark plugs and cleaned a ton of dirty connections throughout the bike, all inside of two weeks.

Your input is appreciated. Thank you

What is the charging voltage? Should be about 14.5 volts at the battery at 5000 rpm.

The MOSFET and Series type R/Rs don't use the brown wire as they sense the current and adjust internally.

GPzMOD750 - Okay good to know about the brown wire - Thank you

NESSISM - My battery isreading at 12.66v @ 3k RPMs and 12.79v @ 5k RPMs. Not nearly where it should be.

LesbianSeagull wrote: NESSISM - My battery isreading at 12.66v @ 3k RPMs and 12.79v @ 5k RPMs. Not nearly where it should be.

Your bike is not charging. Hope you are able to figure it out soon.

Since you have a new stator and decent R/R the issue is most likely the wiring.

Be sure to feed the stator wires directly into the R/R, and the R/R negative should go to the battery. The power out from the R/R sometimes goes into the fusebox and sometimes straight to the battery + post. check your wiring diagram and make sure you have a good low resistance path between the R/R and the battery.