TOPIC:

No disrespect guys but I have no idea why anyone would buy a shunting R/R when a superior SERIES type can be had for $45 shipped.

Looks like it was cheaper.
Steve

Nessism, by any chance have you posted a comprehensive how-to for making the mosfet conversion?
Isn't there also the expense & effort of getting a pigtail connector n stuff for the mosfet & adding an additional fuse & getting it mounted? The Ninja part is almost plug n play. I'm sure the mosfet is fairly straight-forward, but the ninja is simpler.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAll I came up with used was this. Better off buying new?
Steve

Some Kawasakis had a mosfet voltage regulator. and I think Hondas & probably Suzukis & Yamahas.
You have to be careful about buying a used FH mosfet, because there was a recall on some Kawasakis for a defective mosfet voltage regulator. I don't know if Honda or the other mfgs had a recall.

Kawasaki voltage regulator recall: 2008~2010 ZX-10R & 2009~2012 ZX-6R.
replacement part number. 99999-0377

EB search = kawasaki voltage regulator zx1000. note: seller has a fitment x-ref.
Voltage Regulator Rectifier Fit Kawasaki ZX-10R NINJA ZX10R ZX1000 2004-2007

Martin, there are two different type of newer type Shindengen R/R's: the MOSFET type that start with a FH prefix and the better SERIES type like the SH775. They both look the same but the SH775 is superior. I'm no electrical expert but as I've learned a shunting R/R, like the stock units on our bikes and the MOSFET type, return all unused current the generator creates back to the stator itself where it is converted to heat. The series type R/R's don't, so they help your stator live longer.

Search ebay for "Polaris Ranger regulator" and then look for this type. Be sure to look for a photo showing "SH775" printed on the unit. These units have become a hot commodity and the Chinese are knocking them off so BEWARE. Only buy a proper SH775, not one that looks like one.

Triumph sells a nice pigtail for $10. You can also just use regular old spade termials. Once you attach the terminals to the R/R fill up the cavity with low acid RTV. I work in the aerospace industry and we do this sort of connection all the time. It's a little ugly but it works well for guys on the cheap.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration















You might want verify they are SH775 before you buy. The powersportsnation units are. They have been very good to me about replacing one I bought about 2 weeks ago and I'm still not sure if it is actually bad.

(Oh, I made an offer for it for $35 and they took it.)

I just ran single wires with spade connectors from Triumph Street Triple loom stator connector into the connector I cut off the original R/R. I ran the ground straight to the battery. I then ran the hot wire to a 20A breaker and then over to the solenoid.

The Triumph uses a similar Shendigen R/R that uses the same connections. You can buy them from Partszilla, etc. for just under $10+ shipping. I called the local Triumph dealer and they ordered it in for just over $10 out the door.

Triumph part No.T2500676 LINK LEAD, REGULATOR

Info courtesy Nessism.

By Nessism: Martin, there are two different type of newer type Shindengen R/R's: the MOSFET type that start with a FH prefix and the better SERIES type like the SH775. They both look the same but the SH775 is superior....

Thanks. I looked into a mosfet a couple of years ago & found some good how-tos on a Ninja 500 site, but I don't have anything in my notes about the SH being better than the FH. All I can remember is that the mosfet is supposed to be better & runs much cooler than the stock-type KZ & EX500 voltage regulator.

Nessism wrote: No disrespect guys but I have no idea why anyone would buy a shunting R/R when a superior SERIES type can be had for $45 shipped.

I haven't needed one for a long time. The originals lasted 25 to 35 years. Since I replaced a couple with ones from mid 2000's, I may not need one until 2030 at the earliest, and that's assuming they didn't approve longevity.

I'd be willing to try one for testing, but based on Shindengen's own website, I'm not convinced the series architecture they chose, is for me. They are using 6 SCR's in place of the 6 diodes. That is actually a design I've seen floated around for many years.

Yes, a series-pass reg/rec has the advantage of wasting less crank power, and running the stator cooler at higher RPMs, but it is not without possible drawbacks, especially at lower to mid RPMs.

Unless they have somehow found SCR's without all of the old drawbacks (which is possible), here are at least two potential problems:

First, SCR's, being active devices, are not quite as reliable as diodes, though they are among the most reliable industrial devices (I believe Crydom still uses them over everything when it comes to handling larger currents). And they are, historically, more reliable than MOSFETS. In the original shunting configuration the SCR's were effectively out of the circuit when the system voltage was low, like at idle, or right after a cold start. They would only become active at higher RPMs, and when they did become active, they may only be shunting for part of a cycle. (They turn off automatically when the phase reverses.) So if you spend a lot of time at slower speeds and idling, as in stuck in traffic, the SCR's will be active almost continuously. Whereas in the shunting config, they would almost never be active.

Second, and this is more of the issue, SCR's, typically/historically, have a higher forward voltage drop than simple diodes, when they are expected to handle the current of a typical KZ. What this means is, right when the bike needs to make full use of the available alternator power, as in low RPM or idling, (because the alternator power is low at low RPM), the series SCR's would be dropping more voltage than diodes would. This means, with a SCR-based series-pass reg/rec, the RPM at which the bike starts to charge the battery would be higher than that of the conventional shunt type reg/rec. For me, this would be greatly detrimental to my batteryless bike. While going batteryless is pretty rare on Kz's, this same issue would also exacerbate problems if anyone is already having charging issues using a Dyna S ignition. They use a lot of power at idle, and that would be when the series-pass voltage drop would be happening.

When I was designing my own KZ reg/rec, the series idea crossed my mind, but the low RPM output loss with the SCR's I had, would not be acceptable for that design, so I went with a conventional design. That was probably over 10 years ago.

But I'm perfectly willing to accept that they overcame these issues. If you have a link to where someone actually measured the instantaneous forward voltage drop using a scope, on the positive side SCR's and the negative side SCR's, that would be great. A simpler test, could also be done. Using a constant, high-load, running a bike at idle and measuring the output of the reg/rec and comparing the output to a new, but conventional, shunt-type reg/rec, would reveal any difference.

Most of that was over my head but it seems you are saying that if you do more high rev riding series R/Rs are good. If you do lower rev riding shunt or MOSSFET R/Rs [whatever that means, I'll Google it some day] are better.

More than half my riding is on the highway or canyon carving so the series type is a good match then?

If it isn't at least the FH-whatever R/R is now just plug and play.

GPzMOD750 wrote: Most of that was over my head but it seems you are saying that if you do more high rev riding series R/Rs are good. If you do lower rev riding shunt or MOSSFET R/Rs [whatever that means, I'll Google it some day] are better.

That is a fair summation of what I posted, as long as the original premise of my concern holds up. There does not seem to be any data either way, so can't really make a solid conclusion. I am only going by the simplified schematics on Shindengen's site, and personal experience tinkering and designing/building regulators.

Based on their description, the shunt-type using MOSFET's was designed specifically to address the voltage loss issue I was describing. The series-type still uses SCR's.

They also, apparently, still produce the tried and true, conventional, shunting-SCR type with standard diode rectifier.