TOPIC:

Make sure you have the Non Resistor spark plugs, No "R" in the part #. Also what coils and wires are you using, stock or other? Is there a resistor cap, and a resistor wire? Only one resistor should be used in the secondary side of the ignition.

1.5 ohm grey coils and Taylor 8mm Spiro-Pro wires.

I'm wondering if the coils should be such a low resistance. The stock coils are usually 3 ohms or less. Can you try another, higher ohmed coils for comparison?

I'm sorry I meant 2.2 ohm grey dyna coils.

Both ignition coils ohm out good on the primary and secondary connections?(Do this with all wires/sparkplug wires disconnected).

You're not using resistor plugs and NGK 5000 ohm sparkplug caps together? If so,this may be why there's a weak spark.

Are the screw connections for the primary(small wires) tight? What's supplied with the ignition coils, are 10-32 X 5/16" screws, if you've used longer screws, they may be bottoming out before the ring terminals are tight, making for poor electrical connections.

All of my ohm readings are within spec both primary and secondary and I am only running suppression wires with no resister caps or resistor plugs. The primary wires to the coils are tight. I got spark but not fat blue spark.

In the Kawasaki manual, they have a spec for how far the spark should jump across a specified gap. This might show an otherwise working system to be at fault. About 8mm I think. But it might be farther.
Remember that it has to return back to Ground. Thats the frame/ battery -, so if the ground is in question, then energy will be low.
Whats the voltage across the coils when cranking/ kicking it over checking for the weak looking spark??

Besides the voltage issues I mentioned above, it's also possible to get a weak spark if the pickup plate was dissassembled and reassembled incorrectly. The magnets must go back in a specific orientation.

home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignitio.../PickupAndRotor.html

I will have to look into this when I get a warm day here. Thanks!