TOPIC:

heres a couple of things I've recently discovered.When I unbolt the dyna 3 ohm coils and insulate them from the frame using rubber and zip ties,then unplug the stator in runs much better.I checked the power to the coils when not running via yellow/red wire and get 12 volts.when running the meter does nothing but flash and wont lock on a reading.I then cleaned the frame mounting points and rebolted the coils with only a rear bolt and the reading locked in . so I tried it STILL SPITS AND SPUTTERS so I stopped on the side of the road and unplugged the stator this time it did nothing.it ran good when the coils were insulated from the frame and stator unplugged so what the ? Some kinda grounding issue? I've checked all the grounds and added some.Is the stator bad?I've checked all three legs and no grounds even turned it over slowly with a wrench nothing. When reved up its putting out nearly 14 volts at the battery that doent seem bad. What the hell is interacting with the dyna coils. Its not the electronic ignition because I put the points back in with the dyna coils and no better.I put the dyna 5 ohm coils from my other bike no better.I've swapped modules no better.98% of the wiring is new. new battery.I'm pretty up set spending $140 for coils and cant get it to run right.

I already tried it with the points and dyna 3 ohm coils no better,tried the dyna 5 ohm coils from my honda no better,tried the dyna module from my honda no better the coils and module from my honda are known to be good

boogiepicker wrote:

I already tried it with the points and dyna 3 ohm coils no better,tried the dyna 5 ohm coils from my honda no better,tried the dyna module from my honda no better the coils and module from my honda are known to be good

To confirm, this is with the points and green Dyna 3 ohm coils, and without any involvement of the eBay Dyna ignition. In other words, the black wire wire from the left-hand points going directly to a primary winding terminal on the left coil firing the outside plugs, and the green wire from the right-hand points going directly to a primary winding terminal on the right coil firing the inside plugs, with each coil having a red/yellow wire (battery positive voltage) to its other primary winding terminal. And NOT running any wires from the points through the eBay Dyna ignition.

If remembering correctly, the points with the old oem coils and NO eBay Dyna involvement performed much better than the points with the green Dyna 3 ohm coils. This of course would mean that -- for some reason not yet determined -- the old coils performed better than the green Dyna 3 ohm coils, because the same points were used with both sets of coils and the eBay Dyna wasn't even connected into the system.

So has an issue evolved as to why the old coils perform better than the green Dyna 3 ohm coils (as if the eBay ignition had never been installed)?

As a dual output coil doesn't require grounding (except for one primary winding terminal grounding and ungrounding through action of the points) and the coil should perform perfectly well just hanging from a plastic tie-wrap, it is abnormal that "grounding" the coils would make any difference in performance. Am now thinking some really bizzare wiring must be involved to cause such a result. Especially since none of the charging components are supposed to be involved with the ignition components.

May be getting time to trace each wire to assure routing according to the factory wiring diagram.

Good Luck!

Tonight I bolted on some old coils (4 ohm) to try with the Dyna ignition because that is one combination i haven't tried. It runs perfect.It won't run in any other combination
Except old coils and points. It won't run with dyna 3 ohm coils and Dyna electronic ignition,It won't run with Dyna 5 ohm coils and Dyna electronic ignition. It won't run with Dyna 3 ohm coils and points ignition (by the way when I say "won't run" I mean skips ,spits and sputters badly ).So you can see the one thing consistant in these combinations are DYNA COILS WHY? Do they need a ballast resister? if so why?Whats the ballast resister look like and where is it located ? I'm pretty sure I already know But i want to double check. Even though I got it running it bugs the hell out of me why it won't run with DYNA COILS? I'm going to email Dynatek to see if they have some kinda explaination

It won't run with Dyna 3 ohm coils and points ignition


Sorry if already been covered, but what plug wires and plug caps are being used with the green Dyna 3 ohm coils ??

Hopefully, new Dyna solid metal core plug wires were purchased from Z1E along with the new coils. The Dyna plug wires come with the caps already built in. Am wanting to assure no issue with either the plug wires or plug caps or connections between the plug wires and plug caps or connections between the plug wires and coil.

And will also seek forgiveness for persistent lingering doubts as to whether a full 13+ to 15 volts is actually reaching the coils with the engine running.

Good Luck!

Yes I got the good wires with solid copper core and even soldered the crimp on ends on one end because they come as 2 wires and you have to cut them in half,the coils are getting full voltage 12 volts not running and over 13 running I have a relay wired from the battery to the coils triggered by the kill switch wire.I/ve tried many many things this is the craziest thing I have ever seen there must be some logical explanation but I'll be a dammed if i know what it is.B8es plugs

If not already done, would ohm check secondary windings (in the green Dyna coils with Dyna plug wires attached to coils) by measuring between the clips inside the plug caps. This might help determine whether there's some fault in a connection somewhere within the secondary loop.

I am in somewhat of a stuck position with the Dyna coils as well. First, I have a 1980 KZ 1000 LTD B4 and I am installing the green dc 1-1 dual. From what I've read the ballist resistor, which I've found needs to be removed. My question is, and this may sound obvious, do I complete the circuit by attaching the removed wires together? I am novice at installing the new coils, but have had experience with other aspects of motorcycle repair. I feel confident that I can complete this job. I just need the assurance I am proceeding the right way.

You really should start a new thread. Jumping into this one is called hijacking. Since this is your first post, I will be nice and merely point this out and answer your question. Also, it would be great if you could go to your profile and edit your signature to include your bike year/model and your location in the event you ever needed help from someone nearby.

Anyway, power to your coils takes quite a path. We have a COIL REPOWERING mode on our website you might find interesting. To get power to your coils, it comes off the main fuse to your ignition switch to your kill switch and then through the big connector on your left-frame neck back into the main harness. Power runs through the harness to your ballast resistor. I don't know where it is on your bike. Perhaps near the battery box or perhaps near the horn under your headlight. The ballast resistor is a white ceramic block about 4 inches long. There is a wire in and a wire out. The wire out goes back along the wiring harness to a dual out connector above and just behind the coils. To remove the ballast resistor, you need to cut the wire that goes INTO the thing and cut the wiring coming out. I would solder them together and heat shrink the splice. The ballast resistor was there to add resistance which added to the primary resistance of the coils. With the 3 Ohm coils, you don't need it now and in fact, need to get rid of it. As those things get older I have seen their resistance creep way up and the overall resistance becomes too high and gives a poor spark.