TOPIC:

boogiepicker wrote:

running decent is with old coils and points ignition,as far as voltage reaching the coils its good I also wired in a relay per wiredgeorge's diagram .I dont think I have the wiring quite right to the right handlebar switch.For one thing when I hit the kill switch to off shouldn't the starter switch still work?

With kill switch turned to OFF, the starter motor does NOT function.

Has performance been tested using the Dyna coils and points? (Sorry if I've forgotten something already reported).

Here is what I would do. Install the old parts, coils and points. Leave the coil mod stuff in and see how the bike run. It should run like it did before "decent" if it doesn't disconnect the coil mod. My idea is to start all over by getting the bike running like it did before the new parts was installed.

Then reinstall the new parts, dyna coils and dyna ignition. The bike should run better or at least the same. If the bike runs the same your problem probably is not with the parts just installed. If your bike runs worse you new parts are bad. I don't feel that swapping parts from a Honda to a Kawasaki is a valid test of parts. Honda engineered their bikes to run a certain way with parts, wires, voltage and ohms as did Kawasaki and it is highly unlikely that a Honda part is an exact match with Kawasaki part.

Here is the problem I had with my Dyna-S ignition. I purchased and installed the Dyna-s ignition however due to lack of money I could not purchase the Dyna coils. So I decided to ride the bike with the old original kawasaki coils until I saved enough money to purchase the Dyna coils. Well about 15 minutes into my ride the bike started running rough like it was a fuel problem then after 30 minutes into the ride the bike lost all power I pull over and found out I was not getting spark to 1 & 4 pistons. When I got the bike home I found that the module on the Dyna-s ignition was fried. Reason being the old coils were not putting out the correct ohms for the Dyna-S ignition. Installed my old points with the old coils and the bike ran fine. I saved up my money and purchased all new Dyna coils, Dyna wires and Dyna-S ignition and now 10 years later the bike still runs perfect.

Electrical parts can look the same or look good from the outside and be defective on the inside. I recommend you to purchase new electrical parts from a company and not from ebay. Due to the fact that the part may be mislabled or even defective and the seller and/or the buyer completely unaware that the part will not work as described.

I hope this helps.

This guy isn't using a Dyna S. He is using one of the other Dyna ignitions (Dyna 2000 or 3000) and it probably isn't a Kawasaki version. The info regarding the Dyna S is good but won't help get this issue fixed. The suggestion to put the old points/condensors back on (leave the new green Dyna coils) is good because that is the only way this bike will run right.

wiredgeorge,a question for you please,do these dyna systems use more current than the standard kawa electronics?
If so, how much?
Thankyou.

Just a thought... are there any numbers ect on the "box" or system?? Have you tried contacting Dyna to see what you really have??
Maybe give us a link to the eBay auction to see what you bought??

If I recall properly, the Dyna S uses more power than the stock points/condensor but it isn't a huge amount. LOUDVHX mentioned this I believe. Haven't seen him around lately but he could likely shed some light on this. I have installed about 100 Dyna S with Dyna coils/wires over the years with no issues. You have to watch how the rotor is installed since there is a single magnet on the rotor as someone has mentioned. At TDC for 1 & 4 you need to install it at about 9 oclock position. Again, if the wrong Dyna 2000 or 3000 was purchased, its module will not fire the same way a Kaw module fires. Doubt it has to do with draw.

Noticed on Z1E site that the latest version of Dyna 2000 ignition includes a pair of 2.2 ohm dual output coils.

Dyna 2000 ignition with 2.2 ohm coils

Perhaps the Dyna ignition currently fitted is also designed to work with 2.2 ohm coils, which is course less resistance than the Dyna 3 ohm green coils now fitted (designed to work with the Dyna-S ignition). Am thinking the higher resistance of the green 3 ohm coils might be consistent with suspicion of the green 3 ohm coils "drawing too much power" when used with the Dyna ignition from eBay.

If this is the case, the green 3 ohm coils may have been the wrong coils to purchase for using with the Dyna ignition bought on eBay.

Z1E also offers the Dyna 2.2 ohm coils.

2.2 ohm coils

Good Luck!

Tonight I checked to see if the dyna coils were shorting out on the primary wires because its extremely close to the mounting bolt spacer.I've read on this forum where others have had this problem and I had checked it before at night w/the tank off and running but didn't see any arcing ,I even had heat shrink tubing on the spacer .But it just seemed like the only logical explanation. so I installed some plastic spacers and used some rubber on the frame under the coils but it was no better. Next I took the mounting bolts right out and zipped tied them on rubber to the frame still no difference.next I unplugged the stator and rectifier and it ran PRETTY GOOD this is the only time i've had it running good w/the dyna 3 ohm coils. so since I did a lot of wiring work I figured I've got something hooked wrong,like maybe a wire in one of the connectors in the wrong place but i havent found anything yet.The Dyna coils are good,the electronic ignition is good so why does it run ok when I unhook the charging system? The stator seems to test good I didn't find any grounded shorts.

I'd check the wiring (3 yellow 14-16 gauge wires) through the grommet on the left side of the engine. Possibly the insulation has broken down and is rubbing together. The wires run above and behind the countershaft sprocket and are bundled with the neutral switch and the oil pressure switch(I think). Any of these might be the cause of the trouble with the charging system.

Z1 enterprises sells the grommet for $12.38 if the old one is hard and starting to leak oil.

If not already done, would test performance using points with the green Dyna coils. If runs better, would indicate the coils are okay, and cast more suspicion toward the eBay Dyna itself or the eBay Dyna with 3.0 ohm coils.

Good Luck!

Before the Dyna S, there was a Dyna III. The Dyna III had the remote igniter box. The two systems work almost the same, but they were able to squeeze everything down from the Dyna III and fit it into the pickup assembly on the Dyna S.

They both use hall-effect pickups triggered by a magnet on the rotor. The Dyna S and Dyna III extend the dwell angle to well over 300 degrees, approaching 360 degrees. The stock points system uses a 180 degree dwell angle. The stock electronic ignition varies from around 100 to 120 degrees. Because the dwell is so much longer on the Dyna system, they use a lot more average current. Unfortunately, most of the time that extra dwell is simply converted to heat in the coils. This is most problematic when idling since this is when the alternator is producing the least amount of power. Weak charging systems show up when a Dyna S or III is installed.

Theoretically, if the Dyna were to produce a 360 degree dwell, it would use twice the average current of the stock points system and over three times as much current as the stock electronic system at idle. If there was a ballast resistor, and that is removed for the Dyna, then the system is using even more current.

All of this extra long dwell does have one advantage, though, it ensures the coils have enough charge time at very high RPMs. This can help if the motor had problems revving all the way to redline under load.

Using higher resistance coils would reduce the power consumption.

I would assume the Dyna III ignitor boxes are identical for Honda or Kawasaki, and only the pickup/rotor assembly is different.

For troubleshooting, you can flip the rotor 180 and swap primary wires on the coils. If the misfiring moves to the other set of cylinders, then the Dyna has a problem, either wiring or the system itself is bad. I see you already tried swapping the Dyna III box (I assume you cant swap the pickups for the Honda version), so flipping the rotor and swapping primary wires will narrow it down to the pickup assembly (if the problem moves to the other cylinders).

If the problem stays on the same set of cylinders, then it may be a bad coil or plugs or plug wires. (Or carburetion or motor problems which you've already been considering.)

And to answer the question of why it runs better without the charging system, it's possible the pickups are bad and are sensitive to the spikes the charging system produces. This is just a guess, but not impossible. Hall-effect pickups are pretty sensitive.

I kinda dont think its the pickups because I put yhe points plate back in (w/the new dyna 3 ohm coils)and it still spit and sputtered.As fars as seeing if the problem jumps to the other set of cylinders thats not gonna matter because it does it on ALL cylinders.I am so totally stumped you dont KNOW!Some other things I need to try are check and see if AC voltage is somehow getting to the coils and want to try the electronic ignition with the old coils UUUGGHHHH thanks for the suggestions,Bob