TOPIC:

boogiepicker, is this what you have (see image)?
If so, this is a Dyna 3 setup and not Dyna S series...

Explains why the electronic module you were speaking of if I understood correctly...

Your original OEM coils should work with this module, test and see and that will confirm if the coils are bad.

And if I have this all wrong, please disregard my ignorance...

OMR

Z1E's listings for Dyna-S has different part numbers for KZ900 and Honda CB750, so swapping parts might not help. And Z1E notes different rotors for Dyna-S on earlier Z1. Possibly the eBay item was the incorrect Dyna-S or included the wrong rotor.

Concur with Old Man Rock's suggestion to ohm check coils' primary and secondary circuits.

Are Dyna plug wires with pre-installed caps being used? (Am well-pleased with the solid core version).

Are spark plugs NGKB8ES?

Am also recalling the smoothbore's tiny pilot circuit intake air jet and passageway from there to the pilot jet must be clean and clear. If not, the fuel mixture at idle and in lower throttle range will likely be too rich regardless of the pilot air screw adjustment setting.

Would be interesting to hear results of the clear tube float level test.

Keep the Faith!

I think your problem may be with the ebay ignition. I've been burnt before on ebay by purchasing a "good" electrical parts. I would have all kinds of wierd problems. Then I purchased the same part new and the problem went away.

My 2 cents.

The Dyna S doesn't have a module as you described. A Dyna 2000 or 3000 has separate pickup coils and a module. What ignition are you using? If you bought it off eBay, you had best figure out specifically WHICH Dyna ignition you bought as it may not be designed for your bike. A HONDA Dyna ignition will NEVER work right on a Kawasaki or vise versa. Timing is different...

Am now uncertain about what parts are being described. And am unaware of the current term Dyna uses for these parts of the Dyna-S system, but in 1995 the supplied installation instructions referred to them as "modules" and specified, The left module fires cylinders 1-4, the right module fires cylinders 2-3 . . . .

Perhaps the "modules" are better described as "pickup coils" or some other terminology, but believe it worthwhile to assure the same parts are being addressed.

Would be helpful if a picture of the unit in question could be posted (showing what's under the points plate), and also a picture of any other box or control associated with the unit, if any.

My frame of reference is with the Dyna-S in this pic.

Good Luck!

For comparison, here is a photo of the 1995 Dyna-S,
without showing the rotor.

Ok I'm not sure what this particular dyna ignition is called but it is the one with the separate module that attaches to the frame with a hose clamp.I got it off ebay and it appears to never have been used,wires still in sealed plastic bag no screw marks on pickup plate.As far as the dyna honda ignition, no the pickup plate won't work or the rotor but the module most certainly will, its the same thing, outside of the wire colors for the points.Any ways as I stated before it didnt make any differenc swapping out the modules or the dyna coils from the honda.I'm pretty sure my problem is in the charging or wiring because when I put the old coils and points on it ran decent stil broke up badly at high rpm but otherwise ridable.One other thing I want to try is the old coils with the electronic ignition.if it runs decent its my charging system (not enough power for the dyna coils ) if it runs badly like its doing now its the dyna pickups or rotor since I 've eliminated the coils and module.But i really dont think its the pickups or rotor cause I timed it staticlly w/ a test light and it was right on the money so it must be the right rotor cause the magnet is in the right place that just leaves the pickups ?I did a test on the charging system tonight as per manual but I don t understand.I hooked my meter between the white wire that comes off the starter relay and toward the fuse side .positive toward the fuse side and negative to the relay side.should be 9.5 amps or more at 4000rpm.The needle on the tester goes the opposite way to the left?keep in mind the wiring was a mess when i got this bike I must have something hooked wrong?Once again I want to thank everyone for the help.

What are ohm readings on each Dyna green coil's
primary and secondary windings?

Problem is likely NOT the charging system. With a good fully charged battery, the bike should perform well and be perfectly rideable for several miles until the battery runs down, even without a stator, rectifier or regulator.

With engine not running and ignition ON, what voltage is reaching each coil?

your right it should run just off the battery.I had a 350 honda I raced with no charging system and it would run for quite a while.I thought the very same thing I even temporarily hooked the coils directly to the battery and it was no better.The dyna 3 ohm coils I have are brand new from z1 for the kz900.I doubt they are bad but lets say they are surely when I pulled the dyna set off my honda IKNOW THEY ARE GOOD it would have been better but it wasn't.Why does it run decent with the old coils? less power consumption?I know dynas take quite a bit more power.I wonder if I diconnected everything from the battery and only had the coils and ignition hooked if it would run better? I'm wondering if something is hooked wrong causing a discharge which only shows up when the new power hungry dyna coils are installed?I just checked the dyna 3 ohm coils primary is 3.4 secondary is 13.8 that doesnt seem right? I checked the old coils and secondary is 27. the dynas on the honda are 26.7

Am thinking the new Dyna coils seem okay with 3.4 ohms primary and 13.8K secondary.

Imo, any additional power consumption of Dyna coils is not an issue with a good battery, provided battery voltage is reaching the coils. So, what voltage is reaching each coil?

To clarify, when running decent with the old coils, is this with Dyna ignition or the old points ignition? In other words, does the Dyna ignition seem to function okay with the old coils, but not with the Dyna coils?

Dyna ignition functioning okay with old coils, but not with Dyna coils, could indicate insufficient battery voltage reaching coils (perhaps due to corroded connectors or faulty wiring causing drop in voltage between battery and coils). All being of course predicated on a good fully charged battery.

Good Luck! And thanks for the progress reports.

running decent is with old coils and points ignition,as far as voltage reaching the coils its good I also wired in a relay per wiredgeorge's diagram .I dont think I have the wiring quite right to the right handlebar switch.For one thing when I hit the kill switch to off shouldn't the starter switch still work?