TOPIC:

Regarding point gap measurement,
am uncertain whether '78KZ650 is same
as '73Z1-'78KZ1000, but am guessing
they are probably the same at
.012 -. 016 inch (0.3 - 0.4 mm).

So would aim for .014 inch (0.35 mm),
until getting better more definite advice.

Wonder how far the typical matchbook
cover misses the mark .

The photo of the condenser wire connections
is fuzzy, but there are supposed to be two
small fiber insulator washers on each
connection.

I see the bottom fiber washer on each side,
but don't see the top fiber washer on either side.

If the top fiber washer is missing,
it will improperly ground both the condenser
wire and the signal wire. Which results
in the points always being grounded
(same as always being closed)
regardless of open gap between
point contacts.
This would mean that the coil never
gets ungrounded and therefore never fires.

Here's a pic for illustration
of the correct attachment.

Look at the lefthand points and
see the two brown fiber washers,
one above and one below the mounting tab.

{Click on image for larger view]

OK thanks that helped A LOT!!!

I have checked the ohms and it appears that the right point is bad. As I kind of expected from just watching it open.

BUT I have spark coming from the left point now!!!!
All I had to do is remove the points plate from the crank case and clean the mounting tabs where the plate bolted up. Now I have spark!

So I will replace the point and get some of those fiber washers for the points.

Thanks and hopefully before monday I can get it to fire up.

THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED OUT

Im still a little confused on how to gap the points though?

Do I losen the smaller plates that the points attach to or the actual points themselves?

I can do it just confused on what to do. Thanks Aaron.

superman63086 wrote:

Im still a little confused
on how to gap the points though?

Do I losen the smaller plates
that the points attach to or
the actual points themselves?

I can do it just confused
on what to do. Thanks Aaron.

Each points set is held by two
screws to a back plate.
Each back plate is held by two screws
(through slotted holes) to the round
mounting plate.
The round mounting plate is held
by three screws (through slotted holes)
to the engine case.
A cam fits through the advancer.
The heels of the points ride the
cam to open and close.
A little oil soaked felt pad
lubes the cam so the heels
don't wear out so fast.

1st -- Adjust gaps --
Do this separately for each points set.
Dress point contacts if needed to
minimize pitting by using a point
file or fine sandpaper pulled
through between the contacts.
Clean the contacts. Turn crankshaft
clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest
points opening and adjust gap
separately for each set of points
at FSM spec
(eg., KZ900 is 0.3-0.4mm or .012-.016 inch).
Each points set has two base screws
to very slightly loosen thereby
allowing movement to open or close gap,
then retighten after setting gap.
The widest gap happens when the heel
is resting on the highest part of the cam.
At this stage nothing but the gap
has been adjusted. But this is
important because proper gap
affects the subsequent timing procedure.
And other screws have remained tight.

2nd -- Set Timing --
Each points set has two mounting screws
and pry slots which can be used with
strobe light (after slightly loosening
the two mounting screws) to align
the respective F marks with the timing mark.
But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel
far enough to allow correct adjustment,
then loosen the three mounting plate
screws and move the mounting plate.
Usually, the round back plate affixed
with screws at center of slots is
a decent starting position,
and often doesn't need to be relocated
from that position.

3rd -- Tighten and recheck --
Tighten all screws and recheck
timing with strobe light.

Also, check to assure proper operation
of the advancer unit.
If removed for cleaning and lubing,
be sure the cam unit is replaced
correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Also good to have a fan blowing
onto the cylinders while setting the timing.
Dynamic timing is done while the
engine is running. I prefer using a
strobe-type timing light (Z1E has a good one)
which also allows seeing the advancer
unit move forward and backward
when changing rpm.
Static timing with engine off,
using a light bulb or ohmmeter,
isn't as accurate as dynamic timing
with a strobe light, but may suffice
to at least get the engine running
so it may then be timed dynamically.

Good Luck!

It's been awhile since I've worked on a bike with points ignition but one fact stands out to me. You have one set of points, one condenser and one coil firing cyls 1&4 and you have another set for cyls 2&3. You've essentially got two separate ignition systems.

If you have no fire from either coil, you should probably look to what both ignition systems have in common. Perhaps the kill switch circuit?? Can't think of much else off the top of my head, but this might be a school of thought to pursue.