TOPIC:

Any chance we could get Wired George's gauge cleanup reposted or stickied?

Were you just unable to find it, or want it "stickied" so it's easier for everyone to find?


Either way, here's the link to it:
Gauge Clean Up How To

If you copy the picture links within wiredgeorge's post and paste the URL in your browser, they are still viewable.

Example with pic #1 URL:

I tried search in the archives>electrical and went through all 52 pages of electrical but other threads related alluded that the "cleanup" must predate what's found in the archives. The way others bragged this "how to" I thought this might be a good thread to bring into the new KZrider.
I also had to get a lesson from my neighbor who used to frequent this sight but doesn't care for the new format on how to view the links to the photos. Thanks for reposting WG's gauge cleanup for me and others.
I will be attempting this cleanup myself, especially the coffee can trick to get the ring back on.

That how-to is posted in the ARTICLE section of this site:

kzrider.com/content/view/39/11/

I would recommend to not attempt unless your gauges are really bad. More damage than good will most likely result. I know I'd never attempt it on any of my bikes unless I had a good spare just in case.

More info about gauge restoration --


Z-Resto

I have done this job and it is not difficult. I recommend a worn screwdriver to pry up the edge of the ring. A worn screw driver does not have any sharp edges to scratch things up. Work slowly and pry the ring up just enough to clear the case lip. When installing the ring, I use a wooden dowl to push the edge of the ring down then crimp with a pair of pliers that have a smooth gripping surface, as not to scratch anything.......chris3

I had to remove the ring on my 1000 to replace the screws that came out and fell in the bottom of the housing. I found a much nicer way to remove the ring.... I cut the ring with a dremel tool, bent it open a very little, took it off, did the work I had to do inside the speedo, and replaced the ring. The ring actually still held real tight tension and there was less than a 1/16" gap when I got done. I turned the ring towards a spot that it wouldnt be noticed and put a drop of J-B weld over the ring. The ring is tight as new, no bend marks, and is the easiest to do. I never did try the bending the ring thing, once you bend any metal in any way even if its very minor, it still shows the bend mark.

dannyg40 wrote:

I had to remove the ring on my 1000 to replace the screws that came out and fell in the bottom of the housing. I found a much nicer way to remove the ring.... I cut the ring with a dremel tool, bent it open a very little, took it off, did the work I had to do inside the speedo, and replaced the ring. The ring actually still held real tight tension and there was less than a 1/16" gap when I got done. I turned the ring towards a spot that it wouldnt be noticed and put a drop of J-B weld over the ring. The ring is tight as new, no bend marks, and is the easiest to do. I never did try the bending the ring thing, once you bend any metal in any way even if its very minor, it still shows the bend mark.

I did exactly the same. Cut the ring and when putting it back, sealed the gap with JB weld. Worked like a charm

What size Dremel cuter did you use? I can't see how you would get close enough to the housing to cut the last of the ring on top and yet not hit the housing. Did you just cut the bottom and side of the ring and spread it just enough to slip the guts out?

It was actually a Roto - Zip tool I used. I just cut around the band just deep enough to "break through" the metal and not touch the housing. I held the tool in my left hand and made the cut towards the bottom right of the gauge. ( around the 4'oclock position ) Once it cut through I opened the band just enough to slip it off and no more. (dont over open it cause it will distort the band). When I put the cover back on and the band back on it surprised me how tight and how nice the ring when right back into place and held its shape. I put the opening I had cut towards the 5'oclock position and there was no more of a gap than the original cut I had made. I didnt even need to use any type of clamp to hold it in place while I put a drop of J-B Weld on it and smoothed it out to match the original shape of the ring. Dont make the cut with the edge of a cutter like a dremel tool, use the tip of the bit to do the cutting. The ring looks like it was never touched !

Post edited by: dannyg40, at: 2007/12/31 04:10

A dremel wheel that's worn down is a good cutter for small places. I did mine with a screwdriver and it turned out asklfj;throtui;4 trjkf. junk. I tried, I failed. But they they wore out right after anyway.