TOPIC:

The compression is slightly low; the rings are probably worn a little, and I'm sure it could use a valve job - but it's very fast, runs great, doesn't smoke - so I'm not gonna spend any more $ on it. I only use it for pleasure cruising, too many old drivers here in Florida to use it all the time. When I bought it, it was parked for 10 years out in the elements, totally neglected rusted junk. Considering that, it is in incredible shape today (spent 3 yrs on it).
The plugs would be a great fix, if they work. I'll probably try them sometime in the future. If I do, I will certainly review them here....was really hoping someone else had firsthand knowledge of them...

Wild and KZ Guy wrote:

...If I do, I will certainly review them here....was really hoping someone else had firsthand knowledge of them...

I see the problem.

Let's face it. All KZ owners are cheap. If we liked to spend more money on potentially better technology, we'd all be riding ZRXs or something.

I bet if somebody figured out a way to use the flint from a Bic lighter as an alternative spark plug, we would. We just have to figure out how to connect the tach cable from the engine, split out into two or four, to the Bic roller and get the timing of the flint just right... Oh, and disable the child-guard...





In the meantime, I'm actually hoping you buy them and tell us all about them.

Or maybe you should check into a more modern sport-bike forum, or a BMW forum... you know, where people *have* money and are willing to *spend* it...



Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2007/07/08 22:45

I don't really think we're cheap..not all of us anyway. I prefer the KZs, they were THE bike when I was in my youth. And I actually prefer them to the newer bikes; I like to see my engine, pipes, etc - I think it's a beautiful thing. I don't want to see murals painted on plastic, wanna see hardware, chrome, etc. And the seating position is more natural. Plus you can actually work on ALl components of our bikes ourselves, and that's half the fun of owning one...makes it a hobby, something you can take real pride in..not just a bike you plunked down lotsa $ for, and have to plunk down more when you have to "take it in" every time something goes wrong. Not to mention that an insurance agent told me insurance on one of those 'crotch rockets' averages $2000 - $4000/yr! Wow!
Just my opinion~

Post edited by: Wild and KZ Guy, at: 2007/07/08 11:05

Decisions, decisions. Spend money on blonde girlfriend or cockamamie plugs?

Warning - unsolicited opinion and ideas follow --
Bike seems too properly set up to be so readily fouling plugs, and IMO, it's relatively low mileage, and unlikely needing a valve job.

What type new air filter? OEM style paper; K&N; foam?
Valve clearances to specs?
Any fuel additive being used?

IMO, the premature plug fouling may be resolved, but by something other than the "smart plugs."

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/07/08 11:30

hmmm...ride the blond GF or the KZ bitch?...tough choice..
Qs:
-OEM paper filter.
-Valve clearances to spec.
-Use SeaFoam every tank. Gotta say, if I use "Prestone Fuel Sytem Cleaner" every tank, (like 4 bucks at Walmart), the plugs don't seem to foul. But that gets expensive and a pain.
My heads are already shaky, as far as the threads go; the previous owner had apparently cross-threaded 2 plugs, though only for a thread or two. But if I'm not REAL careful...well, you know what'll happen. So I don't really want to be changing plugs all the time either.
The plugs interest me because of the article I read. They said if you were to create a gap in the plug wire, or hold it away from the top of the plug while firing, it would 'force' the coil to create a higher/more powerful voltage. I've read elsewhere, that this is true. Supposedly, the Aldor Smart Plug has a Thermoreactor disc that creates the same effect, & delivers up to 40% more spark power to tip of plug when cold/wet. There are guys(other websites, not Aldor's) saying they've used them in their old tractors with great success. Intriguing!

Have you tried going thru a couple of tanks of gas without the Sea Foam? I know it's good stuff but it could be some of the fouling problem.
Ride safe



I take that back, that almost sounds like advice,,,

Post edited by: The Milkman, at: 2007/07/08 21:04

Which NGK plugs (heat range) are you using? Maybe you're using a plug with too cold a heat range. Also, I would not keep using Seafoam in every tank, I doubt that even the manufacturer would recommend using it that much. One a year should be plenty uless the bike sits for months at a time and the fuel gums thing up a bit. Ed

Wild and KZ Guy wrote:

Has anyone tried Aldor Smart Plugs? Supposedly, they fire in oil, and are self cleaning. My bike fouls plugs enough to where they misfire and need cleaning or replacing; My engine is 30 yrs old w/26000 miles on it, so I'm sure the rings, valves etc are worn. But I'm not gonna do any major engine work, and this seems like a good quick fix.

There is no single electrode spark plug that is "self cleaning" nor will fire once the electrode is shorted to ground by deposits. Often these "miracle self cleaning" plugs are nothing more than standard plugs mismarked so you get a hotter plug than expected.

A check to verify that you are using the correct heat range spark plug would be the first step. I am sure you did that.

If you are in the right heat range and not over-choking your engine on startup and you still foul plugs, you have two options to correcting the problem at it source, hotter plugs or anti-fouling caps for your spark plugs. The caps work so-so, but they will buy you some time before a rebuild.

Wild and KZ Guy wrote:

Has anyone tried Aldor Smart Plugs? Supposedly, they fire in oil, and are self cleaning. My bike fouls plugs enough to where they misfire and need cleaning or replacing; My engine is 30 yrs old w/26000 miles on it, so I'm sure the rings, valves etc are worn. But I'm not gonna do any major engine work, and this seems like a good quick fix.

There is no single electrode spark plug that is "self cleaning" nor will fire once the electrode is shorted to ground by deposits. Often these "miracle self cleaning" plugs are nothing more than standard plugs mismarked so you get a hotter plug than expected.

A check to verify that you are using the correct heat range spark plug would be the first step. I am sure you did that.

If you are in the right heat range and not over-choking your engine on startup and you still foul plugs, you have two options to correcting the problem at it source, hotter plugs or anti-fouling caps for your spark plugs. The caps work so-so, but they will buy you some time before a rebuild.

Wild and KZ Guy wrote:

...previous owner had apparently cross-threaded 2 plugs, though only for a thread or two...said if you were to create a gap in the plug wire, or hold it away from the top of the plug while firing, it would 'force' the coil to create a higher/more powerful voltage....

If not already done, might want to consider using a "thread chaser" tool to clean up the spark plug hole threads. Needless to say, correctly starting the tool into the thread is of critical importance. Absent specific tool instructions to the contrary, should probably use grease on the tool to catch any foreign matter and thereby avoid it falling into the combustion chamber.

Having the Dyna ignition, coils, plug wires, and coil wiring mod, would seem to well cover most common ignition weaknesses (without needing any magic tricks).

Is battery in top condition?
Has voltage across battery terminals been checked at idle (12 volts) and almost 15 volts up to 4000 rpm?
Would also assure good connection/ground between negative battery terminal and engine/frame.

With all the work and corrective measures having been undertaken, can certainly understand the frustration of continuing plug fouling problem. But honestly believe the "magic plug" option is grasping at straws.

Forgot to mention -- would also double-check fitting of the metal contact tab to end of plug wire going into the coil to assure good connection to core of plug wire. and apply dielectric grease before inserting into coil.

Hope solid metal core plug wires are being used, and not plug wires with the graphite or resistor type core.

HISTORY of
A.L. Doering Spark Plug Corporation
By Robert S. Mihailin
During the early 1900's gasoline powered engines really came of age. There were, however, oil seepage problems that were inherent to the design. Oil would seep past the pistons into the firing chamber resulting in rough running, hard starting, and loss of power.
Mr. Doering, a farmer in Staten Island, New York, found that his tractor always seemed to have problems with misfiring cylinders or cylinders not firing at all as the day wore on. In speaking to his acquaintances, Mr. Doering found that this problem was widespread and not just limited to his own tractor. Each day he would re-tune the engine so it would start the next day. The problem was becoming very time consuming and costly as he constantly had to replace spark plugs.
In experimenting with his own tractor, Mr. Doering found that if he disconnected the spark plug wires and held them very close to the plug, the spark would bridge the gap resulting in more power to the engine. Seeing the results of this, Mr. Doering would run his tractor with the spark to the engine. As the engine would warm up, he would then connect the wire firmly to the plug. Through his new system he found that his engine would run better for much longer periods and the plugs would not foul as often. Mr. Doering tried his experiment on various engines with the same results. At about this time an investor named Mr. L. Anderson heard about Mr. Doering's invention and promptly formed a partnership with him. In 1914 the A.L. Doering Spark Plug Company was formed. Mr. Anderson's role in the company as mechanical engineer resulted in obtaining a U.S. Patent for the series gap spark intensifying plug. Many other patents followed.