TOPIC:

Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S

1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:

A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).

2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.

3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.

5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.

6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.

7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!

8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.

9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.

10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.

Kawasaki Clutch Replacement. (Taken From The Internet)

It is very simple to find out what you require. I thought I needed a clutch also, but it only wound up requiring clutch springs. Those are MUCH cheaper than a clutch. First of all Z1E can get you what ever you require.

If your springs are more than 10 years old, than it is almost for sure that they will be. Mine were so bad that when I shifted into second and third and punched it, the engine revved to about 10K until it heated up enough to displace the oil and catch. The springs are only about $15-$20 for the set, and are very simple to change.

The clutch pack is on the other hand more costly. First of all you will require a clutch cover gasket. That you know that you will require for sure. If you have Phillips head screws on the clutch cover, you should also replace those also with Allen head bolts because you are guaranteed to bugger up some of the Phillips heads. If you have Allen’s already you are set.

1) Remove clutch cover.

2) Remove 5 bolts holding clutch springs.

3) slide out friction plates and steel plates.

4) Wipe off friction plates and measure each one in a couple of spots to see if they are in spec. Most likely you will find out that they are well in spec and they will just require de-glazing.

5) If plates are under spec than just order the entire APE kit with plates and springs from Z1E for about $100.

6) if plates are in spec than just order the springs.

7) very carefully remove old gasket from both surfaces using a either a gasket scraper or a single edge razor blade(I like using a sharpened piece of Lexan or Plexi-glass as a scraper).


8) if old clutch is GOOD than de-glaze with a plastic scrubbing pad (Scotchbrite pad).Do this in a soapy water solution using a strong dish washing soap solution. Make sure that you de-glaze both the friction plates and steel plates. Another method would be to use a random orbit sander, but again, the clutch disc’s and steel plates would need cleaning before sanding and afterwards.

9) allow to dry

10) reassemble everything, make sure you leave gasket dry.

11) Be aware the following will be for the “J” engine(Kz1000,Kz1100).

If you require the clutch than this is what you will require.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1490

If your plates are good than you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319

Before sure you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2685.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

Thanks for the xclnt info MFolks, especially the alternator -- truth be told I've never worked on an alternator problem and was not even sure if that could cause the rough running problem I had, but in the back of my mind I was starting to think I needed to check it.

Right now the bike's had a couple days of normal behavior but if she hiccups again I have several things to follow up on, this being one of them.

These FI bike's need a steady source of electrical power, Many years ago, I was out riding and noticed my bike was getting hard to respond to throttle action. On my instrument dash is a push button that turns the tach into a volt meter.

When pushed, I noticed the voltage was way low, but before I could get home to troubleshoot, the bike quit running.

I parked it to let the battery recover,and had to push start it as the battery was too low to crank the engine (Real fun getting a 500lb bike going fast enough to "Bump Start").

Arriving home, I got out the trusty factory shop manual and deduced that the bike had lost one of the three phases of the alternator by using a multimeter.

I ordered another stator and changed it out a few days later, and indeed had burned out some of the stator windings.

I noticed the connector to the regulator/rectifier was heat damaged along with the main connector going to the fuse block, so these were repaired too.

I've not had any more trouble since, I never found out why the stator lost a phase, maybe a factory defect?

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

...bike does in fact have those reed valves, the vacuum switch and the hoses....

Old hoses may allow air leaks.
Would remove hoses, etc. associated with the reed valves, and shelve.
Plug reed valve intakes or connect them together.
Plug unused vacuum nipples.
Plug hole in airbox.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Smog Block Off Plates
www.tpoparts.com
www.kzzone.com/billet.html

hi kaw world,
kaw jerr here :
i just purchased the 1980 fi zi classic
the hick ups during acceleration in all gears
the start, idle, revs in nuteral and running speed is good
but hickups are unexplanable but
i saw a post in here that recommends checking the transvering wiring bundle for broken wires
i did , the whole package looks store bought new and flexable
do i need to check them (each) for continunity
the ground wire looks like a rat chewed on it so i will replace, and the white/red wire looks discolored
three wires join at the fuel filter location can i splice the three back and just pigtail them /
im totally new here so let me know the ins and outs
jerry

Welcome to KZR. There are several here that can help you with your Injected bike.
But really you should start a fresh thread, put the bike info, add that to your signature for future posts.
Now the Red/ white, that will be Battery power,. Sounds like you are near the relay location for the fuel pump and computer? Under the Tank?
you may be able to go back 6-8 inches and replace the heated wires, as they will be causing resistance and voltage drop. So the computer and fuel pump would be under voltage.

IM WITH PATTON : REMOVE THE FAULTING SCREEN AND KEEP INLINE FILTER CLEAN .
TONITE I TEAR INTO MY FUL PUMP . I WILL POST WHAT I FIND IN MY INPUT SIDE CAP

following your lead
i removed the fuel pump and removed the mysterous filter in the inlet tube , i didnt see restricting materal but after i retreived all those little loose slugs and put them back in the rotor i will replace every thing and see if the hickuping is still there and let you know my results my next move will be the throttle switch replacement at 72 + dollars , would like to see some positive vibes from you all this negativity dampens my hope for a smoothe runnig classic

These fuel pumps can put out up to 70 PSI, but the pressure regulator limits it to 33 PSI at idle and then 35 PSI while the engine is under load.

Fuel Pumps & Regulators
www.fuel-pumps.net/gsl393.html
www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/FuelPumps.asp
www.airtexproducts.com/