TOPIC:

Yes as Mfolks said the gauge will bounce a bit, but not 20psi. This is way to much, if it is correct. I would think no more than 5psi change would be occurring.
Good you found some wiring contact issue. Hopefully your getting close.
I'll thow this up for reference from Ebay.
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JAGUAR-XJ6-AND-X...&hash=item2c528f41a0

There are also universal ones that have a built in gauge, and are adjustable. Some of those old Bosch systems had adjustable pressure regulators. Setting this was part of a tune up in the old days.
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sspagename=DCP:RV:GI

Maybe already covered, but if not already done, would assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine.

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton, the '-' lead from the battery is a dead short to everywhere I touch on the motor and motor mount bolts etc. Looks okay. The cable itself off the battery's '-' terminal is physically immobile, not loose at all.

Thanks MF, I really like that regulator with built-in guage, sheesh. I will buy that if the bike hiccups again.

Right now after finding that loose connection, no problems.
(Or......maybe I've been getting real lucky with the seat and the FI wiring bundle that crosses at the seat hinge point.)

The only thing I found with the air flow switch today was -- the manual says 'slowly push open the flap and as long as the ohms never go to zero (short circuit) or infinite (open circuit), the switch is okay.' Well that condition passed today with flying colors. Now maybe I'm over-thinking this air flow switch but it seems that as I 'slowly push open the flap' shouldn't the ohms reading slowing move from lower to higher, then as I slowly release the flap, I would think the ohms would reverse and move the other direction.

Instead the ohms will increase as I slowly open the flap but then sometimes will drop back down only to rise up again, as opposed to logically what I'd want to see -- a real gradual increase or decrease of ohms with no jerkiness.

So I put the air flow switch back in the bike. THE BIKE RUNS PERFECT.

So here's my plan. The next incident (if any) of a hiccup back to rough running I will re-do the fuel pressure check and do the relay (after ensuring that the loose connection I found today didn't come loose again.)

Right now the only problem with the bike is -- the petcock drips a little. That is probably because I took it all apart and the oring inside needs replacing.

If I find the regulator goes south I thank you MF for finding that replacement. This is the first time with fuel injection and if I search on 'flow meter switch' or 'regulator' how would I know if it's swap-able with my bike. I'm not qualified or knowledgeable enough at this point.

So for now I'm switching to my 'new' Kz650.

I really enjoy keeping these old "Dinosaurs" running, I love a good electrical motorcycle mystery now and then too.

As I've posted before a few times, when you're out for a ride and when you park for a snack or a cold one, notice how quickly a crowd will gather, they will tend to ignore the latest, fastest bike and concentrate on what you've rode.

Stories will be told of how their Dad,Brother,or themselves had one, and how fast it was.

Nothing sounds/looks like a big, four cylinder Kawasaki getting it's act together and moving down the road...

MFolks wrote:

I really enjoy keeping these old "Dinosaurs" running, I love a good electrical motorcycle mystery now and then too.

As I've posted before a few times, when you're out for a ride and when you park for a snack or a cold one, notice how quickly a crowd will gather, they will tend to ignore the latest, fastest bike and concentrate on what you've rode.

Stories will be told of how their Dad,Brother,or themselves had one, and how fast it was.

Nothing sounds/looks like a big, four cylinder Kawasaki getting it's act together and moving down the road...

You know you're right, Kawasaki did a great job on this bike with the chrome tank, engine parts, the gold-colored cast wheels, right now the bike has really low superbike handlebars on it, it's a cool looking bike that no way looks 31 years old. It has been a garage bike for a long time. Anybody can buy a new bike, there is no vintage riding experience there, and no novelty.

I was in the Navy at the time this Z1 Classic came out and couldn't afford one, I'm really happy to have it. The bike was not ridden enough and neglected a bit but cosmetically it's excellent, and if you've driven a really old high miles bike you will know what I mean when I say this bike feels as tight as just off the showroom. It's got around 100hp and really gets up and goes, and the seat is in just the right position and height so the bike seems to handle really well for the weight. My '78 kz1000 A2 has about 28k miles and this '80 Z1 feels much more powerful. My stock '78 has about 84hp I've been told, and the extra few hp on the '80 bike is noticeable.

I've learned a lot and will stop myself next time I start complaining as I'm pulling carbs off an old revival for cleaning. (Such as my currently-dead '79 kz650.)

and then u get to a "J" bike like mine and the hp goes to 102 and u can really get on down the road.God Bless Maw Kaw and all the old kaws on the road.She did well.bj

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

Thanks Patton, the '-' lead from the battery is a dead short to everywhere I touch on the motor and motor mount bolts etc. Looks okay. The cable itself off the battery's '-' terminal is physically immobile, not loose at all.

Thanks MF, I really like that regulator with built-in guage, sheesh. I will buy that if the bike hiccups again.

Right now after finding that loose connection, no problems.
(Or......maybe I've been getting real lucky with the seat and the FI wiring bundle that crosses at the seat hinge point.)

The only thing I found with the air flow switch today was -- the manual says 'slowly push open the flap and as long as the ohms never go to zero (short circuit) or infinite (open circuit), the switch is okay.' Well that condition passed today with flying colors. Now maybe I'm over-thinking this air flow switch but it seems that as I 'slowly push open the flap' shouldn't the ohms reading slowing move from lower to higher, then as I slowly release the flap, I would think the ohms would reverse and move the other direction.

Instead the ohms will increase as I slowly open the flap but then sometimes will drop back down only to rise up again, as opposed to logically what I'd want to see -- a real gradual increase or decrease of ohms with no jerkiness.

So I put the air flow switch back in the bike. THE BIKE RUNS PERFECT.

So here's my plan. The next incident (if any) of a hiccup back to rough running I will re-do the fuel pressure check and do the relay (after ensuring that the loose connection I found today didn't come loose again.)

Right now the only problem with the bike is -- the petcock drips a little. That is probably because I took it all apart and the oring inside needs replacing.

If I find the regulator goes south I thank you MF for finding that replacement. This is the first time with fuel injection and if I search on 'flow meter switch' or 'regulator' how would I know if it's swap-able with my bike. I'm not qualified or knowledgeable enough at this point.

So for now I'm switching to my 'new' Kz650.

If you end up needing a fuel pressure regulator, Google "pogue machine Oklahoma City" Call them. You'll either get Sid or Butch on the phone. Get one of their adjustable regulators. You probably won't have to even touch it after bolting it on.

You guys are doing a good job diagnosing this bike. If you can afford it, get the injectors cleaned & balanced too.

FYI, the filter will never be full when the bike is running. Generally 1/2 - 3/4.

Check all the vacuum hoses over carefully. That rubber is pretty old now

Larry C

larrycavan wrote:

If you end up needing a fuel pressure regulator, Google "pogue machine Oklahoma City" Call them. You'll either get Sid or Butch on the phone. Get one of their adjustable regulators. You probably won't have to even touch it after bolting it on.

You guys are doing a good job diagnosing this bike. If you can afford it, get the injectors cleaned & balanced too.

FYI, the filter will never be full when the bike is running. Generally 1/2 - 3/4.

Check all the vacuum hoses over carefully. That rubber is pretty old now

Larry C

Okay thanks Larry, yes these guys have helped me take the bike from:
- not running for 10 years
- running like a new bike

It was a long road but the rewards in learning and riding have been great. I have to say without Motor Head this bike would probably have carbs on it right now. Let me say the prior owner had really given up on ever getting this going again, it is remarkable that apparently the bike has turned a corner for now. I am open to the possibility of the 'rough running' symptoms returning but right now it is running incredibly well.

Thanks for the pointer to the fuel regulator -- that sounds like a good feature to be adjustable and will check it out if my regulator gets ornery.

I was planning to get the injectors cleaned but this bike is close to pulling up the front end on a handfull of throttle so for now I'm going to ride it. However I will check the hoses which is something I have not done. Most of the turnaround effort on this bike has been electrical in nature.

All of the vacuum lines are probably dry rotted. On my bike I use windshield washer hose for the smaller lines.

I don't know if Kawasaki started to put the "Smog Gear" on these earlier engines. It's a system of reed valves over the exhaust that add additional air so combustion continues in the ehaust pipes. A large rubber line goes from the air filter box to a vacuum controlled switch that has two branches, one to each set of two exhaust valves.

MFolks wrote:

All of the vacuum lines are probably dry rotted. On my bike I use windshield washer hose for the smaller lines.

I don't know if Kawasaki started to put the "Smog Gear" on these earlier engines. It's a system of reed valves over the exhaust that add additional air so combustion continues in the ehaust pipes. A large rubber line goes from the air filter box to a vacuum controlled switch that has two branches, one to each set of two exhaust valves.

This bike does in fact have those reed valves, the vacuum switch and the hoses -- the reeds are on either side of the top of the valve cover on the exhuast side of the valve train. I encountered them about 3 weeks ago while doing the valve adjustment service. I had to clean the reeds as part of the valve adjustment.

I had to partially disassemble and remove that system because the vacuum hoses leading from the reeds to that vacuum switch were large, thick and stout rubber hoses. If you think about the degree of flexibility in a straight piece of rubber gas hose, these large vac lines were no way like that. They are stiff large rubber pieces. I could not get the valve cover off until removing those vac hoses and getting the ability to move the vac switch out of the way.

I'll have another look at those. However they looked to be in very decent condition when I pulled them off the reed plates. Frankly, the overall condition of this 31 year old bike is remarkable, but it was in a warm California garage all its life. Rubber does get old though, so I will take another look at these hoses. Thanks MFolks.

Maybe off topic, but here's some information you might need:

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.


6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

I may have already posted this, but other riders may not have seen it:

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.