TOPIC:

Trying to find a good project bike I stumbled upon this:

vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/2022349692.html

I'm not into the fuel injection though. Is considering converting it to carburetor a terrible idea? Is it a major undertaking? is it even possible?

I'd appreciate your thoughts and/or accusations of lunacy.

Also, what do you think of the bike? Worth it?

From what I've read on this forum, it's possible, but going to carbs will first involve re-locating the fuel tank petcock(fuel valve)as it will hit the carbs and then the return line one way valve port will need to be plugged.

Some information I've saved:

82 GPZ 1100 B2 Carb Conversion


My 1982 GPz1100 B2 had the FI replaced with BS34 "K" carbs and K&N pod air filters and the Mac 4 into 1 exhaust.

It's slow to warm up and seems to spits back through the carbs occasionally even after it's run for 15 min. or more. Eventually after maybe 8 or 10 miles, it seems to run without barking back much but doesn't quite have the mid-range I would expect.

I've got the carbs off for cleaning and repainting right now.

It has
125 main jets
needle in on the 3rd (middle) slot.

The book I have says the K had 122.5 main jets and the needle in the middle slot.

I'm thinking about raising the needle one notch when I put them back together.

Question - Does that seem like a reasonable thing to do?

P.S. (as it warns in the manual, I let both of the little ball bearings on the choke rod get away from me. Doh!)



Re:gpz 900 carbs on a gpz1100?
yep..
just did some measuring..
the gpz1100 spacing is 75-95-75 mm

gpz900 is 75-86-75 mm

are their any other carb options for the gpz1100 ?


Keihin CRS33 or Mikuni RS34 are your two best options.

Don't take the DFI off to put BS34's on it..... big mistake.

Or, contact Sid Pogue in Oklahoma City and get your throttle bodies bored.... Nice performance upgrade!

Re:Another 81 GPZ.
Saki Jockey wrote:

What are you running for Carbs / jets?


TK-22 carbs from an LTD(Same carbs on 550 A1-A3/C/D1, but D1's are black and have bigger main jets.)

Mains drilled to 99 (from 92 on the LTD, but D1's come with 94 mains).

Pilot jets drilled to 34 (from 32).

And I'm using Dynojet DN0205 needles from the 2305 kit. 3rd clip from top (out of 6possible positions), no shims
This is similar to the K&L rebuild kit Y77 needle which is identical to the Kawasaki 4D93 needle which is the adjustable version of the stock needles. On the Y77 or 4D93 you want the 2nd or 3rd clip from the top (out of 5 positions). (2nd mimicks the fixed position of the stock needle exactly.)

Mixture screws are about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out.

That was just a rough setting, but it seems to be flawless. Starts easily (even without a battery). Full power past redline, no pops, no hiccups, and no dead spots. I may have gotten lucky on the setting.


Interesting fuel mod on my GPz1100 DFI
larrycavan wrote:

Old trick from the mid 80's finds new life in the next century

You have two choices to fatten up the fuel curve on a stock Kawasaki DFI from those days.

1 - Air temp sensor Resistor
2 - Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

For a mild street motor the air temp sensor works very well.

For anything that would require main jet increase on carbs, the FPR is the ticket.

Also, if you drill out the TPS plugs so you can adjust the TPS for highest smooth idle, it can help a bunch with bottom end throttle response. It's simple and very effective.

To do it, slightly loosen the 2 TPS screws and adjust to point where bike idles the highest. Lock them down and adjust your main idle screw on the TB rack for 1100RPM idle.

If you really want to wake it up, send the throttle bodies to Sid Pogue at Pogue Machine in Oklahoma City. Well worth having done.




Kawasaki GPz1100 Handling Information

What? A derivative of the J model handling poorly? Say it isn't so. Kawasaki discovered handling with that bike, so something's wrong. Air is the answer to the question nobody asked. You don't need it. First, lube/replace the steering head bearings, Reassemble the front end. After adjusting the steering head bearings to the Kawasaki factory manual specs, get yourself an HD Dyna Superglide manual and perform a "Fallaway Adjustment" This adjusts the S/H/B PERFECTLY.

Now slide the tubes out of the steering head WITHOUT DISTURBING IT. Dis-assemble and clean the fork legs, replace the fork seals with Kawasaki OEM only. Take the original thirty year old fork springs and relocate them to the trash can of your choice. They're JUNK. Install Race Tech or Progressive Suspension fork springs. Fill fork to recommended level with 10wt (If you're a sprite) or 15wt (If you're a fast fatso like myself) fork oil. I use HD Screaming Eagle Heavy.

Now reassemble the whole deal. Replacing the tire if necessary. If you have a death wish, run a Maxxis or Cheng Shin. If you have something to live for, Metzeler or my preferred Bridgestone BT45 V. Did the puking fork soak the brake pads. You know what to do. Good.

You think you're DONE. You haven't looked at the BACK. Disassemble/lube the swingarm pivot bearings. Take the screen door guides Kawasaki called shocks, and make them join the fork springs. Replace them with ANYTHING that fits, and is NEW. Anything is an improvement. Adjust the chain until the swingarm pivot and the rear axle is parallel within ONE millimeter. Anything bad, tire, chain and sprockets is GONE.

Hello alexnelson:

Mike is correct...it is possible, but unnecessary if the current FI is functioning. Others I am aware of have converted to Mikuni BS34 carbs. There are two huge issues brought up by MFolks... (1) your fuel tank structure after carb conversion, and (2) your cylinder head after carb conversion.

(1) The petcock of a 1981 GPz1100 will not clear the top of the carbs after conversion. The petcock must be relocated about 95mm (or so) toward the front of the tank. This will involve cutting and welding.

(2) Your FI ports are directly in the head on a 1981 GPz1100. These ports must be plugged somehow (I've seen threaded plugs or epoxy used) but it might involve removal of the head from the bike.

At $1000, that bike would be in my garage as you read this.

Converted 81 DFI to 29 Mikuni Smoothbores....no problem.

Converted 83,84,85 to CRS 33...no problem.

Wouldn't waste my time putting BS34's on a fuel injected bike GPz.

JMO

alexnelson wrote:

Trying to find a good project bike I stumbled upon this:

vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/2022349692.html

I'm not into the fuel injection though. Is considering converting it to carburetor a terrible idea? Is it a major undertaking? is it even possible?

I'd appreciate your thoughts and/or accusations of lunacy.

Also, what do you think of the bike? Worth it?

First before you banish the DFI, try the bike first. If the bike does in fact have DFI issues, then yes think about carbs. Far too many people get "scared" of kawi's DFI system, when in fact it's a reasonably reliable system once you understand it, and know a few tricks I have the original DFI on my '84 GPz, and after a simple mod to richen up the fuel curve, my GPz runs fantastic !

Yeah I'm scared.

The only problems I've every had with my kz650 were all electrical related.

Another electrical component seems like the last thing I need. I re-jetted my carb with ease. Just seems more straight forward. Comes down to what you know I guess.

Here is mine converted.

Looks fantastic man. Thanks for the pic!

otakar wrote:

Here is mine converted.

If I end up picking this thing up you'll be getting some questions from me to say the least.

I feel like holding out for an '81 or '82 Z1000. Hard to find though.

alexnelson wrote:

I feel like holding out for an '81 or '82 Z1000. Hard to find though.

If you want to hold out for a really nice bike...look for a 1983 KZ1000J3...only released in Canada...google it, you'll love the looks!!

Mcdroid wrote:

alexnelson wrote:

I feel like holding out for an '81 or '82 Z1000. Hard to find though.

If you want to hold out for a really nice bike...look for a 1983 KZ1000J3...only released in Canada...google it, you'll love the looks!!

You won't find one...I am making a clone of the bike on the cover of the kawasaki manual, they sure are sweet!

On a side note, I have an 83 GPz that I have all the DFI stuff for and am not going to use it, if you decide to keep the DFI and need some parts or spares or anything let me know.

You want a nice setup?

Grab that stuff from Adam, send the throttle bodies out to Pogue Machine for boring & adjustable pressure regulator and get Adam to sell you the cams from that 83 as well.

Swap the entire DFI harness. Seal the 81 head injector ports with pipe plugs. Add some K&N tapered filters.

You'll have a nice, strong running GPz11 that will stomp all over a BS34 equipped version