TOPIC:

Hi tonight i was trying to remove the locking allen nut thats right next to the tach that connects to the engine. it was really stuck and i really tried to loosen it with no avail. i tried so hard that that allen bolt snapped a piece of the engine with it off. so now i cant even put it back on its broken. do i really need this piece? will the tach loosen if i dont get the lock fork back on?

Yes, it will drive itself out. Pic?
Steve

my email is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. the pic wont send for whatever reason.

It sounds like you might need a new cylinder head --- assuming the female threads for the allen bolt are broken off. Or maybe get the thing welded. ??? You can look on eebbaayy to compare your cylinder head to others. It's not uncommon for some of the bike breakers to break stuff, especially exhaust studs & I've seen one or two broken tach drives.

Next time, use a good penetrant & give it time to work. Kroil is supposed to be best. Liquid Wrench penetrating spray is good, readily available & cheap. Heat & vibration also help.

OUCH! You should have it repaired by a competent welder.

There really is no reason to struggle with stuck fasteners since they can be freed up so easily. Next time you have a fastener that is stubborn instead of giving it the King Kong treatment and breaking something simply soak the fastener with Kroil (see link below) for 2 or 3 days. Then it will come out without a problem. Kroil really does work. I've used it on plenty of stuck screws including that tach drive screw (except mine was a JIS cross-head not an Allen socket) and the screws came out no muss / no fuss. Ed

See www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/59672...k-need-advice#656244

Good Fortune!

Would I be able to plug up the tach hole? And maybe get a digital tach? How do those work?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI have been working on Japanese bikes sense I was 18. What I have found is, there is no way even a proper bit will remove a screw or bolt that has been on there for 30 years or had some kind of locking agent used on it. You need a hand impact tool.



You can grind the tip of one of the bits to better fit the heads but I have yet to do this as I replace them with Allen heads. On the I don't, I just tighten then give the driver a couple light taps to retighten them. It's a must have for any tool box.
At this point, the only thing you could or should do is have it welded using the broken piece and rethread it.
Some lessons are hard learned and payment tends to be expensive. If brought to my shop, it would be a $50 hit.
Steve

Well the engine part broke into 3 pieces. I think I'm just gonna have to leave it. This is so irritating.

PIC? You might be able to drill and tap a deeper hole. On mine the threads go all the way into the cam housing. PICS.
Steve

swest wrote: I have been working on Japanese bikes sense I was 18. What I have found is, there is no way even a proper bit will remove a screw or bolt that has been on there for 30 years or had some kind of locking agent used on it. ....

I cannot say about the locking agent, but I have removed very stubborn fasteners on my bike that had not been touched since it was manufactured, and I did not need to use an impact driver even though I own one exactly like the one you show. I know the entire history of my bike because I bought it new in April, 1977. Some of the fasteners had been untouched for well over 30 years. I found the way to get them out was to soak them with Kroil for 2 or 3 days to break the bond that had formed between the fastener and the metal is was screwed into. I was amazed. In fact, one became so easy to remove that I though I had broken something when originally applying force without Kroil. Ed

Ed, I believe you could be called true 1% er. The way you have cared for and maintained your bike is unusual at best. 90% of the bikes that came into my shop were abused in one way or the other. I didn't have the luxury of being able to soak anything, not to mention for three days. The customer or owner of the shop would not have it. With a little know how, even luck, I've been able to repair munged up fasteners, threads and parts in a timely fashion and keep the costs down. To this day in whatever field I've been in, "word of mouth" is my calling card.I was taught long ago by my Mentor, "The man with the tools, gets the job." We all have our own ways, this is mine.
Steve