TOPIC:

Please believe me, I do understand. I'm sure if I took my bike to a shop and the owner told me it was going to take 3 days for him to remove a screw I would think he was crazy.

Unlike the bad ole days when I owned the BSA, since owning the KZ650 I have never had to use it as my sole source of transportation, so I have had the luxury of taking as long as I want to perform any maintenance tasks. I recognize this is totally different than someone performing the work for a fee in a service shop environment. I'm not condemning the use of impact tools, and I'm sure they have a place in the world (otherwise why would I own them?); the point I was making was just that there is more than one way to skin this cat. Either way works; the choice is up to the guy who is doing the work and whatever time limits he may be under. Ed

We all have our own way. Like John Wayne sad, "A pretty good way'"
Steve

He also said; "I don't care much for quitters son."
Steve

without pictures to asses the damage, everyone seems to be jumping to the worse case scenario
If you don't keep your bike like 650ed's I would first see if there is some way to use the Form-at-thread epoxy to reassemble the pieces, and maybe use the threads as repaired, this is not a very high stressed area.
Also the hole in mine is drilled thru to the cam cavity also, so maybe just a little deeper tapping will work also
The last thing I would do is pull the head, to repair this. I'd do without a tach before going down that road
YMMV
EZ

On this pic that 650ed posted almost 4 years ago, is the added red line pointing to the broken area?
Are any female threads remaining on the engine head?





Good Fortune!

I think that's what he was talking about. Must have been something more than just tight. I would suggest he buy a tap at OR or AZ, run it through and use a longer bolt. A little JB weld to glue the pieces together before doing it could work. He may have given up.
Steve

ezrider714 wrote: without pictures to asses the damage, everyone seems to be jumping to the worse case scenario
...
EZ

For sure, don't assume anything. post up good photos --- the one Patton provided is pretty darn good.

Electronic tachometer. The Kawasaki electro tachs I've investigated get their signal from the black primary wire going to the 1-4 ignition coil --- it's the wire that provides the signal to fire that coil.

Yes

OK
Steve

Does that thing screw in? Is it tight? If not and it does, you can try blue lock tight on it.
Steve