TOPIC:

While you are there doing the cable. Be sure to clean and re-lube the pivot/ worm gear. Keep tabs on where it sits, at what angle so you put it back on the worm gear in the correct spot. Other wise you'll make yourself another problem.
Not sure if you have the factory service manual for your bike?
But this will cover the most of your engine stuff, clutch, carbs etc. www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99

nlneilson wrote: Now to find a place that has them in stock so I won't have to wait 7to 12 days to get it.

Z1 Enterprises has competitive prices and usually ships the same day.

What normally happens when a cable breaks is that one strand breaks. Then another. Then another. At some point, it becomes so weak that it stretches. The issue you were having is exactly what happens when the cable is stretching. I would wait until you get a new cable installed, then test it out.

Lube the cable over night, as most have no lubrication when shipped. Making an Aluminum foil funnel, and then putting in some 30-40 weight oil, with the cable suspended over a drip pan, will lube the new cable correctly. You can also buy at most motorcycle shops, a kit, with a special cable clamp, spray can of lube & extension tube. Either way, make sure the new cable is lubed before installation.

While in the sprocket cover area, clean out the old chainlube & clean and lube the
Throwout mechanism for the clutch rod.

I've had pretty good luck with these guys and shipping isn't as bad as others.


www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b241...00223e478cd9d/clutch

Got the new clutch cable and got it installed after lubing everything. I adjusted the clutch cable with just a small amount of play rather than as tight as I had it before the cable broke.
I received the clutch disks today, Thanks Motorhead. I got an email saying the motorcycle cover that I ordered a few days is ready for pickup. I will get different oil at that time.

At the kawasaki dealer when picking up the clutch cable I should have asked about the gasket for the clutch cover. My next little project will be to remove the clutch disks and check for warped plates to find out why the clutch is dragging but just when the engine is running.

So, interesting thread. My 1990 KZ1000P also has a bit of drag. It goes away after I get moving a bit. I have lived with it but was intending to replace the clutch anyway. It happens most at first start up. I just figured since it had been sitting for a decade it was just not going to free up without surgery.

www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm

Most of them were tight on the grooves. There is at least one friction and one metal disc I have not been able to get.

Does the clutch outer housing #2 come off without removing the 27mm nut and the clutch inner?

Nope.....not only that but to remove the outer clutch housing (#2) you would need to split the cases. When you say the plates were tight on the grooves, can you show a pic? The long ridges on the clutch housing (#2 and #5) that the plates teeth engage on should be smooth so the clutch plates can slide back and forth engaging and disengaging the clutch.
Are there any grooves in those ridges? If so that may be a problem.

I definitely do not want to remove the engine and split the cases.

I will try and get some pictures. the outer and inner grooves look smooth.

I brought the discs in to clean then. There are 9 friction discs. Motorhed sent me a set and there are 9 also. Maybe they are all removed from the clutch housing Or could they have put in 10 friction discs and a corresponding number of steel plates?

In the Clymer manual it has the groove width to tab clearance should be (ideal .014 to .033) "Too much clearance will cause a clutch rattle. Too little clearance will cause clutch drag". They seem to be tight but move freely when you ca get a hold of them. That should not be enough to cause the amount of drag with the engine running and almost none with the engine off.

edit: with a bit of tinkering I was able to get the ninth friction disk out and there are 8 steel plates.
The friction discs that came out have the grooves cut straight out. The discs sent have the groove cut at an angle like it is shown in the manual.

The oil level was between the marks but drained more than 5 quarts.

bluezbike
"Nope.....not only that but to remove the outer clutch housing (#2) you would need to split the cases.

That does not seem right.

" Pull the outer clutch housing, thrust washer and plain washer off the transmission output shaft by hand.
www.ehow.com/how_8775844_repair-kawasaki-kz1000-clutch.html

That may be true with J motors, Earlier KZ motors you do need to split the cases to extract the outer clutch housing and output shaft.