TOPIC:

Clutch dragging on 2000 KZ1000P

There is considerable drag on the clutch when the engine is running.

I did a search in the forum for clutch and found none with a similar issue.

I have owned several bikes and other vehicles and adjusting the clutch was not an issue.

I have the Clymer manual and followed that.
I changed the oil yesterday with full synthetic with the 'conserve' so with the small amount of graphite the clutch should have less drag.

I had the proper adjustment at the lever or even a bit tight.

Today I adjusted the center cable and lever adjustment so there is no slack and even about 1/2 inch tight. The clutch was dragging when I bought it a few weeks ago.

It only seems to drag with the engine running. With the engine off and in gear with the clutch lever in the bike can be moved easily with no indication of dragging.

The amount of drag is not consistent, sometimes less or more but it never goes away as it should.

The manual has some clutch problems are caused by warped plates. If that is a problem it seems the dragging would be about the same with the engine off or on.

I don't look forward to pulling the clutch out just to see if the dragging problem can be found.

edit: the captcha code is a bit much , what next, adding some Chinese and Hindu characters?

Two comments.

Putting in automotive Energy Conservation oil is a BIG mistake!!! That will wreck your clutch friction plates. You need to use oil intended for use in wet clutches and that will be marked JASO-MA. Trying to use inappropriate oil to mask a clutch problem is not a good solution.

Adjusting the clutch at the center cable and at the lever is not adjusting the clutch. That is simply adjusting the clutch cable. Adjusting the clutch involves FIRST adjusting the clutch adjustment screw under the little cover, then the center cable adjuster, then the lever.

Ed

Thanks Ed for pointing out the oil is incorrect but I have not had a problem with it and that is not my problem now. I also still have a Honda 750 Super Sport I bought new in 1980 and the clutch still works great, I use that oil in all my vehicles. I pointed out the new oil so there would be no question of old dirty oil causing the dragging clutch.

"I have the Clymer manual and followed that." "FIRST adjusting the clutch adjustment screw.
Yes that was done. And looking at the screw driver slot in the clutch adjustment screw that had been done several times times before.

Getting back to the problem of the dragging clutch when the engine is running but releases fine with the engine off.
Has anyone run into this or have a reason why this is happening ??

650ed wrote: Two comments.

Putting in automotive Energy Conservation oil is a BIG mistake!!! That will wreck your clutch friction plates. You need to use oil intended for use in wet clutches and that will be marked JASO-MA. Trying to use inappropriate oil to mask a clutch problem is not a good solution.

Adjusting the clutch at the center cable and at the lever is not adjusting the clutch. That is simply adjusting the clutch cable. Adjusting the clutch involves FIRST adjusting the clutch adjustment screw under the little cover, then the center cable adjuster, then the lever.

Ed

Also that oil will not have the properties to lube you cam and lifters, drain that oil out and change it. Ed is correct on this.

The topic of this thread is why the clutch is dragging, not why the clutch is slipping under heavy load where the oil may have some bearing. There must be threads on oil.

The ambient temperature is about 75* F. I fired the bike up to go to the gym. The clutch was dragging so bad it almost stalled the engine. I revved it up to 5K to slip the clutch (more better) but soon went back to dragging.

If someone has an idea why the clutch is dragging I would appreciate that. Adviicre on oil can and probably is in a different thread.

The captcha code is a pain on this forum . I am one of the moderators on a programming forum and only

registered members can post. If they post spam advertising, ugg boots, designer hand bags from China, porn, etc. they will be permanently banned. That has worked great for years.

Besides having the wrong oil for your wet clutch.
You could have a physical problem with the clutch plates themselves. Tilt it over onto the side stand, and pull the clutch cover. Remove the bolts which hold the clutch plate. Remove the steel and fiber plates paying close attention to there assy order. Check the plates for damage, or miss assembly. The service manual will have specs for wear/ thickness and the assy order.
Z1enterprises.com will have new clutch friction discs and can get you the steels if needed.
If your broke and want a good used set of friction discs, I've got some I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping.

nlneilson wrote: ... problem of the dragging clutch when the engine is running but releases fine with the engine off....

Stated another way, does this mean that the clutch fully disengages when the engine isn't running but fails to fully disengage when the engine is running?

What reveals that the clutch fully disengages when the engine isn't running?
With the transmission in gear, and the handlebar clutch clever squeezed in, is it easy to roll the bike forward? How does such ease of rolling compare with rolling the bike forward with the transmission in neutral?

Is there any evidence of clutch slippage under acceleration while riding?

Good Fortune!

Motor Head wrote: Besides having the wrong oil for your wet clutch.

Thank you Motor Head
"I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping."

That will be great. I will find the link you mentioned and get the data and money sent.

You could have a physical problem with the clutch plates themselves. Tilt it over onto the side stand, and pull the clutch cover. Remove the bolts which hold the clutch plate. Remove the steel and fiber plates paying close attention to there assy order. Check the plates for damage, or miss assembly. The service manual will have specs for wear/ thickness and the assy order.
Z1enterprises.com will have new clutch friction discs and can get you the steels if needed.
If your broke and want a good used set of friction discs, I've got some I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping.

Motor Head wrote: Besides having the wrong oil for your wet clutch.
You could have a physical problem with the clutch plates themselves. Tilt it over onto the side stand, and pull the clutch cover. Remove the bolts which hold the clutch plate. Remove the steel and fiber plates paying close attention to there assy order. Check the plates for damage, or miss assembly. The service manual will have specs for wear/ thickness and the assy order.
Z1enterprises.com will have new clutch friction discs and can get you the steels if needed.
If your broke and want a good used set of friction discs, I've got some I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping.

PATTON:
"... problem of the dragging clutch when the engine is running but releases fine with the engine off...."
That is my problem YES.

With the engine off, in gear and the clutch pulled in the bike moves easily rolling it back or forward.

There is no sign of slipping under acceleration.

nlneilson wrote:

Motor Head wrote: Besides having the wrong oil for your wet clutch.

Thank you Motor Head
"I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping."

That will be great. I will find the link you mentioned and get the data and money sent.

You could have a physical problem with the clutch plates themselves. Tilt it over onto the side stand, and pull the clutch cover. Remove the bolts which hold the clutch plate. Remove the steel and fiber plates paying close attention to there assy order. Check the plates for damage, or miss assembly. The service manual will have specs for wear/ thickness and the assy order.
Z1enterprises.com will have new clutch friction discs and can get you the steels if needed.
If your broke and want a good used set of friction discs, I've got some I can send you for the price of shipping. Read Free Parts but pay for shipping.

So if you check out your clutch discs and need a used set of fiber/ friction discs let me know by" Personal Message" that's the PM link under my avatar.
I could ship them tomorrow if you check yours and there no good. I don't have any Steel plates though, so if you need those you would have to hit up someone else.

650ed:

I am new to how this forum is set up.

I could not find the section for free parts.

My email is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I would like to get the clutch parts

9 tries to get the capctha code
is this a game ?