TOPIC:

nlneilson wrote: 650ed:

I am new to how this forum is set up.

I could not find the section for free parts.

My email is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I would like to get the clutch parts

9 tries to get the capctha code
is this a game ?

There is No Free Parts Section. Only" For Sale"
Send me address through the PM system, I can give you a price for the shipping. Do you have a Pay Pal Account? If so you can send me the shipping money that way. Instantly. I can take them to the Post Tomorrow for you..

I can get them into a Flat Rate Envelope for $6, so just do the Pay Pal for that. I'll send them tomorrow.
Check your PM for details.
You should lube these plates up with some good motor oil for the install, as they have been in the replacements box for a couple of years, so there a bit dry.
Good Luck.
By the way I run 15-40 Delo Oil. You can get a Gallon at WalMart for like $11-12 depending on if its on sale. Can be as cheap as $10. Much better for your bike for sure.

OK let me get this straight. The clutch puts torque to the transmission even when the clutch lever is pulled in and motor running. But with motor off and clutch lever is pulled in the bike rolls fine? Right?

My 09 C14 clutch puts a little torque on the transmission. I can feel it the most at start up with the clutch pulled. If I roll the bike around in gear with the clutch lever pulled in I can't tell if there is any clutch drag. The bike rolls around fine even though it is on heavy machine.

The C14 has been in several parades with the American Legion Riders and there have been no clutch problems other than my clutch hand get fatigued after a few blocks. Same with the Z1 except water cooled works better on hot days.

On my 75 Z1 900 when I drop into gear, the bike pulls it's self forward ever so slightly with a "thunk" as it goes into gear. The C14 might even "think" a little louder when it drops into gear.
I would guess if the clutch is dragging hard enough it will move the bike in gear and the only way to stop it is witth the brake, it could be a problem.

As for the oil issue. These guys are only trying to help. One of these days using auto mile saving oil will come up and bite you right in the back side. I bought my first bike in 1973. You? The oil makeup has changed over the years. Back when I was young and dumb they didn't have mileage saving oil and using car oil in a bike was not a big deal, But it's your bike and your $. Just sayin. Tim

I know they are trying to help on the oil,


I get that from my Brother also

My first bike was a Harley Pan Head chopper in 1961 or early 1962

I bought a 1980 Honda Super Sport new in 1980,
It was the fastest production bike at that time and still have. I bought the KZ1000 a few weeks ago as a cruiser to Take my Significient other with me

Got the Pay Pal payment. Will get those out to you tomorrow. Hope you can get your bike where your happy with it.

Setting the clutch push-rod adjustment with slightly less gap should enable slightly more separation of the plates when the clutch is disengaged.

Perhaps such slight additional separation would reduce oil-induced dragging with engine running.

Good Fortune!

We tried adjusting the rod tighter but had to back off a bit to be able to adjust the center and lever end.

Same thing on the dragging. My brother took it for a ride and when you come to a stop rev the engine to 2K then most of the dragging goes away.

I took it for a ride an the cable broke at the clutch lever end. Luckily I was able to start it in first gear and get it back. I will try and get another cable and take the clutch pack out to see what the problem could be.

And I will change to the oil recommended.

If the cable had of broke when I picked the bike up between Carlsbad and oxnard CA on the freeway it could have been an expensive mess. I do have AAA towing but not for motorcycles.

Could be that the cable was part of your problem...

I use and recommend Shell Rotella 15W40.

The clutch could have been part of the cable breaking. Instead of adjusting the cable for a bit of slack it was adjusted to about 1/2 inch at the lever end into the pull.

Got the cable out this morning. Now to find a place that has them in stock so I won't have to wait 7to 12 days to get it.

I will be changing the oil after pulling the clutch pack out to see what the problem is,
maybe warped plates

The clutch could have been part of the cable breaking. Instead of adjusting the cable for a bit of slack it was adjusted to about 1/2 inch at the lever end into the pull.

Got the cable out this morning. Now to find a place that has them in stock so I won't have to wait 7to 12 days to get it.

I will be changing the oil after pulling the clutch pack out to see what the problem is,
maybe warped plates

I shipped those plates out today. USPS, Tracking #9114901230803685767329
Probably see them by Thursday

Now that you know your cable was shot, that may very well have been your problem. The cable when separated and hanging on by a few strands will stretch under load. So when you pulled the lever, not all the movement would have gone to disengaging the clutch.. Still worth looking at the clutch plates, and the clutch basket. Easy to pull the cover and dissemble the clutch.

Thanks Motor Head

The cable broke almost adjacent to the fitting swedged on at the lever end. I was surprised the inner cable diameter was so small.
Pulling the clutch apart may be easier than replacing the cable.