Hard to start when warm
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Hard to start when warm
20 Aug 2011 22:30Attachment P21RIDETOWOODENBRIDGE009.jpg not found
2002 kz 1000
starts good when just shut off for (gas fill up)
but when stopped and have a smoke and take some pictures (carry camara on bike all the time)
she gives me a fit some times.
would this be float levels off like its flooded or the old cars would vapor lock?
only does this when it sits for awhile warm motor
thanks for any help guys
Kawasaki KZ 1000 Police (2002) P21
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- MFolks
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Re: Hard to start when warm
20 Aug 2011 23:39
Checked the valve clearances? a tight valve(no space between the cam and shim holder) will let out compression when the engine is hot.
Kawasaki Valve Clearance Checking
Point the lobe directly away from the bucket. Check the clearance. Swap shims if required, Spin the motor over a couple of times to fully seat the new shim and double check the clearance.
Set all valves to the maximum loose setting on both intake and exhaust. Your engine will rev better, the valves will have more time to cool because they'll spend more time on the seat.
The only time I would advise checking clearances between the bucket / shim and the base circle on the cam in any other position would be if you had an aftermarket cam and were checking for flaws.
With 4Valve head & rocker arm adjusters [screw and nut] loosen both locknuts and carefully adjust both lash screws at the same time. When you snug the locknut, you'll generally gain about .0005" in clearance.
That would be .002" ~ .004" (or 0.05mm ~ 0.10mm).
And .0045" would be just fine on the exhaust.
Actually, some folks prefer up to .006" or 0.15mm on the exhaust.
Kawasaki Valve Clearance Checking
Point the lobe directly away from the bucket. Check the clearance. Swap shims if required, Spin the motor over a couple of times to fully seat the new shim and double check the clearance.
Set all valves to the maximum loose setting on both intake and exhaust. Your engine will rev better, the valves will have more time to cool because they'll spend more time on the seat.
The only time I would advise checking clearances between the bucket / shim and the base circle on the cam in any other position would be if you had an aftermarket cam and were checking for flaws.
With 4Valve head & rocker arm adjusters [screw and nut] loosen both locknuts and carefully adjust both lash screws at the same time. When you snug the locknut, you'll generally gain about .0005" in clearance.
That would be .002" ~ .004" (or 0.05mm ~ 0.10mm).
And .0045" would be just fine on the exhaust.
Actually, some folks prefer up to .006" or 0.15mm on the exhaust.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:03
ah this dirty bitch did it agian tonight sat for about 45-50 min. after a ride and it was starting hard again. tried open throttle alittle nothing then choke nothing so i cranked the throttle some more and it fired off what is wrong i hate this shit.
i gettin pissed
so PLease Help me before they put me in a nut house............Thanks
i gettin pissed
so PLease Help me before they put me in a nut house............Thanks
Kawasaki KZ 1000 Police (2002) P21
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:11 - 23 Aug 2011 22:11P21 wrote: ah this dirty bitch did it agian tonight sat for about 45-50 min. after a ride and it was starting hard again. tried open throttle alittle nothing then choke nothing so i cranked the throttle some more and it fired off what is wrong i hate this shit.
i gettin pissed
so PLease Help me before they put me in a nut house............Thanks
Might possibly be something else, but the reported symptoms are consistent with insufficient valve clearances.
Meanwhile, would also assure proper functioning of the timing advancer, which might possibly be sticking in the advanced position after a ride, and which would contribute to difficult engine starting.
And consider installing four brand new NGKB8ES spark plugs.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 23 Aug 2011 22:11 by Patton.
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:20
What is the spark plug reading?
Has clear tube test been done to assure correct fuel levels?
Has clear tube test been done to assure correct fuel levels?
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:27
Thanks Patton
thats what i was thinking advancer sticking
just put a new set plugs in her
and here are my readings from valve clearance
piston #1 in .005 out .002
piston #2 in .0025 out .003
piston #3 in .003 out .004
piston #4 in .004 out .002
thats what i was thinking advancer sticking
just put a new set plugs in her
and here are my readings from valve clearance
piston #1 in .005 out .002
piston #2 in .0025 out .003
piston #3 in .003 out .004
piston #4 in .004 out .002
Kawasaki KZ 1000 Police (2002) P21
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:38P21 wrote: ...was thinking advancer sticking
just put a new set plugs in her
and here are my readings from valve clearance
piston #1 in .005 out .002
piston #2 in .0025 out .003
piston #3 in .003 out .004
piston #4 in .004 out .002
Clearances look okay.
.002 exhaust valve clearance is bordering on tight, but within spec, and most likely not an issue.
Just to confirm, is engine for sure combusting on all four cylinders, as proven by spraying water mist onto header pipes immediately after starting a cold engine?
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:45
yes sir with spray and pistol style heat thermantor (Laser)
Kawasaki KZ 1000 Police (2002) P21
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 22:47
i see i am heading to the Funny Farm soooooon..............lol
any one what my bikes when i go (jk)
any one what my bikes when i go (jk)
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 23:18While experiencing the difficulty in starting would also be a good time to remove a spark plug and visually observe the spark quality. Should be fat blue spark.
Still pondering.
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KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 23:40
Tried a different brand of sparkplug? I've had several NGK's fail right out of the box. If you can get the ones made in Japan, you're probably OK. I went with either Denso W24-ESU's or Accel #116 with no problems.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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Re: Hard to start when warm
23 Aug 2011 23:56
Along with these suggestions, since when you cranked farther on the throttle and it started. How about when it won't start see how wet the plugs are. Unscrew them and see if they are wet. Float/ fuel levels in the bowls, might be high, or as suggested spark might be weak. Checking for flooding, spark, and Fuel levels. Also with the heat of these motors, pressure builds in the Tank, try parking with the cap ajar, to vent the pressure. A lot of fumes comes out of mine, and they are Very Flammable so be careful, definitely no Smoking.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
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1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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