TOPIC:

I did a photoshop of what I wanted on Z900 with Bulldock seat pic. Tank will be on raw iron with coat.
I´ll try to do it on my smaller z650

I´ve mounted Andrews cams on stock 650 cam sprockets and this is the result:
In: 116 degrees lobe center
Ex: 108 degrees lobe center
I need 105 lc so i´m off 11 degrees on the intake and 3 on exhaust. I need to slot the sprockets
Is too much a correction of 11 degrees? Is it safe?

you need indedd slotted sprockets and do the full "cam degreeing" process

www.enginelogics.com/degree-dual-overhead-camshafts/

i am pretty sure you will find a better manual for kawi motors degreeing if you googgle

you will also need for this a dial indicator and timing wheel,

it's not so hard if yo know what you are doing, but if its your first time, maybe let a good mechanic with tuned motor experience do it.

actually, it is not safe to run the motor with the numbers you have now.... dont try to turn it around, you might bend a valve...

I placed the Andrews in stock position with stock sprockets and get the measurements like in the link you have sent with a dial gauge and a timing wheel:
9/62 at intake so 116 lc
53/16 at ex so 108 lc
Andrews #20 data sheet: 26/56 int. and 56/26 ex. and 110 degrees lc but seller said me to install them at 105 lc so i think at 21/51 in. and 51/21 ex.
I suppose i have to slot the sprockets to gain 11 degrees on intake and 3 on exhaust for 105 lobes
I'm wondering if I should return to the stock cams

yes, 105 lc is the common figure on kz, 110 will make the engine need lots of revs to make power

slotting the cam wheels is no big deal, you could even do it with a dremel stone, but it will take time....any machine shop should be able to do it on a mill

plus, are you measuring with a dial indicator and the correct 040"/1mm lash? if you are just going by feel when the cams touches the bucket, its very easy to get mistakes because of the cam ramp

nobody said setting up a race bike is super easy....

turboguzzi wrote: yes, 105 lc is the common figure on kz, 110 will make the engine need lots of revs to make power

slotting the cam wheels is no big deal, you could even do it with a dremel stone, but it will take time....any machine shop should be able to do it on a mill

plus, are you measuring with a dial indicator and the correct 040"/1mm lash? if you are just going by feel when the cams touches the bucket, its very easy to get mistakes because of the cam ramp

nobody said setting up a race bike is super easy....

.040-1MM? That seems extremely wide. Maybe .004" and .01mm?

I´ve checked it at 0.030" (0.76mm) valve lift like Andrews claims

leitz wrote: I´ve checked it at 0.030" (0.76mm) valve lift like Andrews claims

Lift and Lash are two totally different things.

Zero lash.
I check the cam timing at running lash and deduct the lash from 0.030" to obtain the correct checking lift. ( info from Megacycle cams)
0.030" (valve lift) - 0.005 (my running lash)= 0.025
I check opening and closing points at 0.025" (0.63mm)

what are you using to push down on your cam chain?if the answer is nothing thats why you have a large different L.C.between intake and ex.

Kawi810: the upper chain guide sprocket

did you check TDC with the positive stop method? and cam chain is adjusted?