TOPIC:

try an impact gun, while in gear.

Haybus wrote: ...Suggestions for removing the drive sprocket when you can't step on the rear brake? Something I can hold on the dyno or clutch side? Otherwise I'll make a tool that slips over the sprocket so I can hold it.

Here's one method --



Good Fortune!

3 foot cheater and sledge hammer, impact gun, and now the chain trick. It's not budging. It's right hand thread, correct? Torch next?

Haybus wrote: Got some lathe work done in spite of mine being down until the new belt arrives. Bushed up the KZ stem and pressed it back into the ZX triple, so it's not just propped up in the picture. Made spacers for the swingarm. Can't believe how loose everything is by design on the KZ and ZX. swingarms 0.010" clearance on shafts and bearings? That's crazy, so I tightened everything up. That ZX6 bearing set up is wierd.

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Suggestions for removing the drive sprocket when you can't step on the rear brake? Something I can hold on the dyno or clutch side? Otherwise I'll make a tool that slips over the sprocket so I can hold it.

I purchased a 700 lbs air impact hammer gun. Put it on bolt .... it took about 10 seconds but came off no problem.....had red locktite on it also.

Haybus wrote: 3 foot cheater and sledge hammer, impact gun, and now the chain trick. It's not budging. It's right hand thread, correct? Torch next?

It's right hand thread, correct? -- Yes, correct.

Torch next? -- Heat may help where red locktite had been applied.

Good Fortune!

With your rear end, are you running a ZX-6 swing arm with a zx-10 wheel?

Yes, that is the plan. Sprocket just showed up tonight so I can start measuring. Will probably require a 180 tire, but I'll start with the 190 that's on it now.

How tight is the wheel in the swinger? And what is the width of the swingarm at the axle pivot? I'm doing a build on my KZ650 this year, currently have a rear end from a '99 ZX-9. I'll for sure have to narrow the swinger down to fit it into my frame. Just curious if the 600 is much narrower.
Thanks

It's approximately 10 3/8 at the axle. It's hard to get an accurate measurement because I have the wheel on. That swing arm seems wider than what the ZX10 would have been as there is still about 1/2" gap with the caliper bracket on. Or maybe they ran a spacer I don't have. The swingarm is off an 03 ZX6 if that helps.

I'm evaluating the mono shock off the ZX10R. I know I said dual shocks, pay no attention to my ADD ramblings. Anyways, I noticed the link mount is quite offset on the swingarm, but the pivot would almost bolt up to the center stand mount.

Alan

Not a lot of time to work on this, being the holiday time and all. Figured out my chain line. Made a 5/8 spacer to sit the front sprocket for max offset, straight edge off the rear sprocket and shimmed the wheel over until the sprockets were aligned. Looks like I'll need the 5/8 for sure. Need to shave 0.300 off the hub leaving me about 0.200 chain clearance to the frame and 0.300 to the tire. Then I'll need to offset the tire about 0.170" or take it off the hub and reduce the chain to tire clearance. I switched out to a 180 tire and it looks like that was a needed bonus. I like the look too. Stands the sidewall up straight making it look like a drag tire. Course would have been much better if I had started with a 5.5" rim to begin with, but it is what it is.

Started machining the front sprocket. Holy hell that stock sprocket was harder than the hubs of hell. Must be flame hardened teeth and case hardened throughout. A file won't even touch it to knock off the edges after getting it to diameter. Probably better to just buy an offset sprocket, if they make a 5/8 530? But then again I like to make what I can.

Any idea what material the stock sprockets are made from? I'm wondering if it was 4340 or 4130. Just curious cause I'm welding it to a 4340 spacer and probably want to bring everything up to 900f before welding. But if it's some other material...

i have found torch cutting the splines out and teeth off and then letting them air cool and grind the slag off.that they are soft enough to machine,although i can tell they are still pretty hard from the sound,chip color and force needed to advance the tool.after i weld them together while they are still cherry red i drop them in a bucket of used engine oil,that seems to harden them back up nicely.i have fabbed several of these and always get long life and have never had any failures.
i use er70s-2 wire and tig weld them.

i got the below information from ian drysdale,
www.drysdalev8.com/

[Front sprockets vary enormously - some are case hardened good quality
steel, some are fully thru hardened and some have induction hardened
teeth & splines. Occasionally you will come across one that is little
better than soft mild steel.]



hope this helps,
leon

Good one Patton! Love that sprocket holder . Simple yet effective. Doug