I have the Acewell 2802... Not sure how it would work on a 2 cylinder but would think not an issue.
Can always contact the manufacturer of which ever device you go with for confirmations.

1) Wrap provided yellow conductor numerous times around plug wire....
2) Direct connection to Coil 1/4 input of ignition pickup connection at coil....

#2 termination works accurately on my build with Dyna S ignition.....

OMR

In case you need....
Modified cable harness in my build but in following yellow conductor from Acewell, you'll see how I connected
to the coil for tachometer measurements....

I've got an Acewell electronic speedo/tach and the way it's wired is to coil the tach lead around the plug wire 3-5 times and it gets it's signal from inductance I guess. Not tickled with it as the reading bounces around a lot especially at idle. Even cruising at steady speed it will bounce around 2-3 hundred rpm. Not worth doing anything about it though as I'm not the type to try and keep it close to the red line.

So it's been too cold up in my end of the world to ride lately... highs of 8-12 celsius. So I decided that this would be the perfect time to finally wire in the Dyna ignition and get rid of the points. Everything has gone smoothly so far with the conversion, I'm just waiting to borrow a timing light off a friend to get it all set up and ready to run.

The new Dyna plate installed, with the oil pressure sensor wire and the main wiring harness passed through some shrink tube to keep it all together. I'll shrink it all together once I for sure know that what I've done is proper and will work.




All of the clips pushed together and secured in place. This bundle of wires will get tidied up later. They sure make the kit with an excess of wire...




The switched power line to power up the Dyna spliced into the switched power from the ignition to the coils. All taped up and ready to roll.



I checked primary winding resistance at the coils to make sure I wasn't going to fry the unit, and I'm reading between 4.6-4.8 ohms. I know this is on the upper end of the spectrum as the FSM states 3.2-4.8 is the safe zone. Am I going to run into any issues here?

Also- now that I have the Dyna installed, I'd like to run my tach pickup off of it to give me a smoother tach read out. Right now I just have the tach pick up for my Acewell unit wrapped around a plug wire, and it's not the most sensitive reading as it tends to fluctuate lots. My question here is what line to I splice in to in order to get a steady tach signal? I also took the opportunity to adjust a float as cyl #4 was over fueling in the bowl and would dump fuel out of the overflow line when I stood the bike up vertically off the side stand. So the floats were re-checked and adjusted as needed, which should stop my overfueling on cyl #4 when it sits. This didn't affect running performance at all which is good.

More pictures and updates will come after I get it all timed in and running. That should be the project for tomorrow. Any tips on setting the timing? This is the first time I've done anything like this. Static timing seems easy enough to do, but what about the dynamic timing when it's at idle?

Thanks guys.

Devin

From what I can tell as far as these things can ever be called "done" I'm pretty darn close it seems. Just for shits and grins I thought I'd make a list of whats been done to the old girl. Likely forgot a few things but:

New Shinko tires
New spokes
Rims powder coated satin black
Dual front disk setup from KZ650/KZ1000
Brake calipers front and rear rebuilt
All new Spiegler s/s braided brake lines
New front master cylinder
All new brake pads
Front calipers powder coated satin black
Fork lowers powder coated satin black
Rebuilt forks
New All Balls wheel bearings front and rear
New All Balls steering head bearings
New swing arm bushings
New mini signal lights
New headlight chrome ring
New HID headlight
New Acewell electronic speedo/tach
New Motogadget RFID ignition switch
New Antigravity li-ion battery
New regulator/rectifier
Frame and frame fittings sand blasted and painted shiny black
Bodywork painted shiny black
Kawasaki green pinstripe applied on tailpiece
Side covers replaced
New clutch cable
New Gazi rear shocks
New chain
New plugs
Carbs rebuilt
New fuel petcock, fuel lines, filter
New K&N pod filters
New handlebars
New bar-end mirrors
Exhaust headers powder coated high temp satin black
New Supertrapp slip on exhaust
Valve clearance adjusted
Cam chain tension adjusted
New points and condenser
Timing adjusted
Carbs tuned and jetted
New full synthetic motor oil
New oil filter

So about $6-7K for new and used parts and things I can't do like painting and some other things. Plus about 100-150 hours of my time (likely more). All this for something that's loud, uncomfortable, dangerous and useless to me for 6-7 months a year. Oh, and any decent rider on a new Ninja 300 could probably humiliate me on the road or at the track.

I couldn't be happier

Thanks for the replies boys. I think you are all 3 right.Yes Steve ,the drives are matched to the wheels.I thought I might be able to take the gear out of the 19 and fit it into the 17 but theres no way thatll work as the 19 has a skinny axle and the 17 a big fat one.
Brett,the cable should fit ,no problem at both ends. Everything is standard Kawasaki.Theres nothing to be adapted. Wrenchmonkey,I think
youre right in the fact that I will just put it all together and see what happens.Ive got too much other stuff on my plate to be messing around with this at the minute.I asked the question in the hope that others had maybe been through this and come up with a solution but it seems most people just go for an Acewell setup or something similar.

Took a shake down ride today/tonight ran fantastic. Super happy with the RS34's. They ran great all the way through all RIM ranges. Pipe is loud as hell so I will have to start wearing ear plugs. Back brake is not working the way it should, I will try re-bleeding to correct the problem.

New Acewell gauge works great but my speed is off a bit so I will have to re-read the manual and find out what went wrong. I will most likely have to play with the tire circumstance until I get it right.

Things that concern me:
1. Oil pressure gauge works while idling on cold start up. After the bike gets to operating temperature it stops working. Makes me wonder if I have enough oil in it with the oil cooler. I have it filled to the top of the site glass. I an running 10-40 Rotella, perhaps I need to run 20-50.
2. The clutch still slips when I wap the throttle when I'm on the freeway running 5K RPMs. I replaced the couch and springs when I rebuilt the motor.
3. The bike gives me a vibration around 80MPH perhaps it is incorrectly balanced tires. I took them to a shop that does mostly dirt bikes so that may be the issue.

Other than that I'm am pretty damn happy with the performance. I don't have the the drop triple on it yet but I did raise the rear shocks to maximum height. Speaking of shocks, I got F'd by the guy I bought the Koni Shock from. That's right, singular. Went to double check the ad to see if I read it wrong and the post is go. $200 for one flipping shock I am Uber angry. Still haven't calmed down enough to contact him.

swest wrote: Did you buy a cap and make a tool out of it? I've got a couple of old Mag lights laying around and will make you one if that didn't work.
I guess you decided not to go with the extensions then.
Steve

No I just adjusted them per Mikuni tuning manual, +/- 17mm off of gasket surface. I will buy a cap and make a correct tool if they act like they are starving for fuel under WOT.

I got most of my Acewell wired in tonight. Should be able to make a shake down run tomorrow after work.

Update
RS34's are installed and synced. Float levels are finally adjusted correctly. I could not do the clear tube test as the main jets get in the way when I tried to a couple methods to get the tube in in the cap whole. I went old school and kept setting them by float height and filling them with gas until they were right. PIA. That aside I used the color tune to get the pilot circuit tuned correctly. Until I can get a test ride in I won't know how they are going to run. They seem to run very well in the garage. No smoke out of the tail pipe and no excessive heat while riding.

I got my new gauge mounted at least temporarily until I get my new triple trees. It's not wired yet but should be by tomorrow.








Bought these bad boys on Face Book KZ Market today. I think they should work well on the bike. If not they should resell easy. I got a good deal on them.

:S