Search Results (Searched for: Acewell)
Replied by mark1122 on topic Before and After from Sweden. (Kawasaki KZ750 -81)
05 May 2010 14:56
She's looking might fine, mighty fine in deed.

I never got a chance to post up pics of the bike completed. Well 99% anyway. Took these today.
1200cc Wiseco Street Pistons
100CFM head
33 Mics
Web 492 Grind Cams
Wheels, Forks, Arm, Shock 96ZX7R
GSXR foot pegs and rear brake pedal
GPz11 Shifter
Acewell Guage
Oddesey Battery [awesome starting power]
ZX12 Tail Light
Thanks Gabe! for your help with this build!!!
1200cc Wiseco Street Pistons
100CFM head
33 Mics
Web 492 Grind Cams
Wheels, Forks, Arm, Shock 96ZX7R
GSXR foot pegs and rear brake pedal
GPz11 Shifter
Acewell Guage
Oddesey Battery [awesome starting power]
ZX12 Tail Light
Thanks Gabe! for your help with this build!!!
Replied by Arnold on topic Before and After from Sweden. (Kawasaki KZ750 -81)
01 May 2010 12:29Replied by Arnold on topic Before and After from Sweden. (Kawasaki KZ750 -81)
01 May 2010 12:18Replied by OnkelB on topic How to stop blinking battery light on 82 GPZ750
28 Apr 2010 07:09
MFolks wrote:
I did that on my GPz 1100, connected the wire (pink in my case) the battery sensor plugs into to a switched 12V source - ran it like that for 4 years without any issues until I switched to an Acewell gauge that doesn't have the warning light.
Some riders have pluged the battery sensor wire back into the harness after finding a 12 volt source(I don't like doing this as it may cause problems later on).
I did that on my GPz 1100, connected the wire (pink in my case) the battery sensor plugs into to a switched 12V source - ran it like that for 4 years without any issues until I switched to an Acewell gauge that doesn't have the warning light.
Replied by Arnold on topic Before and After from Sweden. (Kawasaki KZ750 -81)
27 Apr 2010 13:59Replied by Old Man Rock on topic GREMLINS - Intermittent Cut Out and Restart
24 Apr 2010 05:20 - 24 Apr 2010 09:59
Somewhat kind of hard to say based on one fact alone... INTERMITTENT!
This is a pisser for electricians, electronic technicians and engineers alike... Damn thing could work through all the testing you could throw at it... You think you have it figured out, it happens again...
:laugh:
You could run through the static timing procedure and see if your +12Vdc doesn't come on but I'd believe you most likely just be wasting your time...
Now if you had a digital tach, it may be simpler due to my Acewell tach conductor is soldered into coil one pickup... This is how the digital tachs work, count the pulses thus rpm.
When it buggers out on you, your tach should not show RPM...
One thing to keep in mind here.... It's a UN-common failure for both pick ups and coils in your situation to fail... Thus the +12Vdc connection is a good starting point...
Disconnecting and reconnecting all your electrical connections on the electrical panel may be a smart move as well...
Also, insure your frame/engine ground is clean and intact... Not broken, oxidized, rusted etc....
Good luck!
OMR
This is a pisser for electricians, electronic technicians and engineers alike... Damn thing could work through all the testing you could throw at it... You think you have it figured out, it happens again...

You could run through the static timing procedure and see if your +12Vdc doesn't come on but I'd believe you most likely just be wasting your time...
Now if you had a digital tach, it may be simpler due to my Acewell tach conductor is soldered into coil one pickup... This is how the digital tachs work, count the pulses thus rpm.
When it buggers out on you, your tach should not show RPM...
One thing to keep in mind here.... It's a UN-common failure for both pick ups and coils in your situation to fail... Thus the +12Vdc connection is a good starting point...

Disconnecting and reconnecting all your electrical connections on the electrical panel may be a smart move as well...

Also, insure your frame/engine ground is clean and intact... Not broken, oxidized, rusted etc....
Good luck!
OMR
Replied by roccon99 on topic Digital Speedometer
22 Apr 2010 06:34
Yeah I agree...I'd much rather use your method as opposed to the magnetic pickup. It sounds like the Acewell with the modified S10 is the way to go.
You technically could I guess, but you'd still have to grind down the lip on the acewell drive a little. That's because the threads themselves are of a smaller ID than the lip OD.
But I'm sure it shouldn't be hard to find someone with an old speedo cable to give you. Even a new one is only $12. Worth it in my view, this way is much cleaner than the magnetic pickup.
But I'm sure it shouldn't be hard to find someone with an old speedo cable to give you. Even a new one is only $12. Worth it in my view, this way is much cleaner than the magnetic pickup.
Replied by T_Dub on topic Digital Speedometer
22 Apr 2010 06:06
I just made the S10 connector fit my KZ650B1 other day. You need an old speedo cable. You cut the old cable and take off the nut that attaches to the speedo drive. Then you take the nut off the acewell pickup. I sanded out the inside lip of the stock nut to fit the acewell sensor body, and then the lip on the acewell pickup has to be ground down to fit that into the kawi nut. If that doesn't make any sense ask me some questions to clarify.
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