Thanks Johnno...This time I'm using Krylon interior/exterior "paint". I'm waiting for a reply from Krylon as to what kind of Paint it is
. Their website labels every other paint they make as enamel. I thought this was enamel...it sprays like enamel, but it dries more like lacquer. At least regarding flash times. If you try to sand it like lacquer, though, it doesn't behave. You have to wait until the next day to get the results you see here. I have painted with Lacquer before, and actually sanded it out within the hour...buffing two hours later. One website I found says it's "lacquerized enamel" then a few pages later calls it acylic lacquer. Other sites call it acrylic enamel. I really need to know, in case I decide to airbrush it with a graphic i have in mind. Also for future use, I like the way it sprays, but, if it's lacquer, I don't want to put it over unknown paints. It's cheap, and covers great, too. I found a table that says the film softens after 15 minutes on exposure to gasoline...plenty resistant for me, although the "rusttogh enamel reportedly doesn't soften at all! Frankly, Johnno, the sanding during the prep phase is the biggest thing I pay attention to, followed by sanding/buffing..all with extreme cleanliness. If you don't do this, youll spend the time later, re-doing it, or the results will suffer. Paint-wise, I just follow the can instructions. It's the easiest part. I've used lacquer, enamel, and am experimenting with Krylon fusion for my side covers...I'll keep you guys posted on how it sands/buffs out...if it does, that is. They look pretty good right out of the can, but that is never really good enough for me.
Okay, I realize I left out something...Paint with the same manufacturer's product, and typr of product from start to finish. The reason I could finish my tank without the reply from Krylon is simple...I used the interior/exterior paint, and the matching primer, both from Krylon. Also, i stripped my tank with a chemical stripper to be sure of what I had on there from start to finish. If you don't know what a PO used for a repaint, you should use enamel or urethane, or epoxy if you can find the color you need...not lacquer. Safest bet is to stay within a product line, start to finish. The reason I stripped the tank is an incompatibility I had on the side covers when I sanded through the clear top coat for surfacing. I customized the covers by sanding out the rear and bottom contour lines, leaving the front and top ones for a subtle, swoopy look. When the new paint (duplicolor, at first) hit the layer between the stock paint and the basecoat of the repaint, it lifted through three layers. Because I was surfacing the tank as well to get rid of some sloppy sanding covered with the silver base/clear in the sides, I knew this same incompatibility would arise again. That's also why I'm using the fusion enamel now on the side covers. Generally, enamel is safer to apply without lifting problems, but harder to control out of a spray can. Light tack coats are very important before you go laying it on like you would lacquer. It will sag if you get in a hurry and spray it heavy. You can't really teach everything about paint without hands-on experience, but that should help.
Post edited by: ronboskz650sr, at: 2005/10/09 21:38
Post edited by: ronboskz650sr, at: 2005/10/09 21:43