TOPIC:

zed1015 wrote:

Can't see why it wouldn't start then with the timing correct at full advance.

The static would have to be miles out which isn't possible with normal wear unless you are mistaking the wrong mark for full advance.
A clear pic of the advancer etc may help..

 

I did not manage to get more checking yesterday i will take some pick of the timing settings .I also will try to use the strobelight,but i think its important to get the engine/rings to brake in more before i start to test with a strobelight  standing idling and steady throttle. So far it has run only 2 trips at about 8 minutes and let it cool a little . I know i have the timingadvancer marked 005 i have seen there is a advancer marked 003 and i think there is another advancer to not sure if that is making it difficult setting the electronic timing spot on. well i will try to take a ride today but it is only 4 degree celcius .

The 005 advancer is correct so just make sure the rotor is stamped 3 and not 3A as this will make timing difficult due to the magnets position. 
The "3A" rotor is for use with the early Z1's 004  5/40 degree advancer and if used with the 005 20/40 degree advancer will cause you to run out of adjustment on the back plate slots.
 

zed1015 wrote:

The 005 advancer is correct so just make sure the rotor is stamped 3 and not 3A as this will make timing difficult due to the magnets position. 
The "3A" rotor is for use with the early Z1's 004  5/40 degree advancer and if used with the 005 20/40 degree advancer will cause you to run out of adjustment on the back plate slots.




 

Okay thanks today i first checked the head stud nuts  torque and checked for leaks.One head nut was a little lose torqed to spec again.
Was a little sweating in front of the valvecover gasket where the camchain goes.I torqed the valvecover bolts with only 9NM so torqued them a little more. Then i started the bike with a recharged battery and it fire right up. Then tested the strobelight, but it did not work and i think that was because i had it connected to a spare battery.
Then i stuffed some tools and the strobelight in my backpack and took a ride and it started snowing !! but stopped snowing again =).Puched the bike a little more today and did some uphill/downhill riding to seat the rings.The bike runs fine ,but had some popping from one cyl.Then i parked at a parkingspace to do some testing and eat a donut.
First i checked temperature with a IR gun on the headers and cyl 2 was hot and cyl 4 was the coldest so adjusted the mixture screws a little and the popping is now gone ,but will on next ride change the plugs with new ones again and check how they look later.
Then i attached the strobe light and this time i connected it to the battery in bike and it worked. Then i got distracted because a old friend i have not seen i a year showed up and started talking with him .So it was hard to keep focus on the testing.I forgot to run the engine at 2500RPM and i only filmed when the engine was running a little above idle. I took a stillpick from one movie and the timing is about 3mm before the F mark .
It is strange that with the testbulb the bulb lights up about 3mm After the F mark?  Took a pick of the dyna-s and the rotor is sloppy no idea if it is genuine.
Not sure if i can just ride the bike the way the timing is set now. It runs good, but have not been over 4-5000RPM yet and maybe if the timing is to far advaced the pistons and valves can make contact??
I dont know what rotor i have where is the stamping?
I will do another ride and do some better pictures from the timing marks with the strobe at full advance
And i forgot the rotor wobble a bit when engine runs

 

The timing light is the best way to set it. Looks like you have enough room to adjust. When the rotor is sloppy it jumps back and forth a little causing a slightly rough idle. At high RPM it has no effect. 
Steve

Steve: the bike idle steady ,but i have it at a little high idle now
Here are some pics how the timing backplate is adjusted. I had a pick on how it was when i bought the bike before i started adjusting it because the bike started to run bad and the timing chain had jumped one tooth. Then i adjusted the timing but think that the timing chain already had jumped at that point.Then after fixed the jumped chain the bike started running bad again and this time it smelled burnt electrical and then stopped .Then i found one of the coils had bubbles underside and was not working =).But one important thing in all this was that i had trouble setting the timing on the camchain because it was worn out sliders rollers and stretched chain. Now after the rebuild and all parts replaced it was easy to set the cam chain timing.

Now when looking at the last pick above it looks like the rotor is not sitting centered .I will check that

.Today i tok a long ride ,but i had to use to much choke the first 15 minutes of the ride to get the engine run okay.It was cold weather about 4degre celcius so it need choke, but not normal for that long and after the engine started to get hotter it runs with no choke but started popping from one exhaust .i knew that cyl 2 was leaner than the others since the exhaustbend was hotter than the other.So when at a gas station i turned the mixture screw on carb 2  15 minutes out and the popping stopped.cyl 4 was the coldest pipe so turned mixturescrew on  that about 5 minutes in to get it more lean.Then i vent for a longer ride and the bike runs very good and today i was
pushing the engine up to 6000rpm and accelerating harder to make sure it is good pressure behind the pistonrings. Then when i reached the destination i started to check the ignition timing with a strobe test light.This time i turned the idle down to about 1000rpm before starting the check. I checked 1 and 4 first now the timing was spot on the F mark ,but not all the time it moves about 2mm. Then turned the idle so the rpm was 2500rpm and tested it was the same
sometimes it was spot on the full advance mark and seconds later it was 2-3mm before the mark so same there. Cyl 2 and 3 i could not check because the timinglight did not work and i also discovered i had forgot my JIS screwdriver and tools at home =) so i will do another check on 2 and 3 later.
So the question : is it okay that the ignition timing point moves like this or is it because of a sloppy rotor on the dyna-s??   the bike ran very good so guess it is okay so long the advace does not move to far and start burning holes in my pistons.Here are some pics from today test

I don't think that will be a problem. You could retard it a little if it does. Have you checked if the springs are tight at rest?
Steve

SWest wrote:

I don't think that will be a problem. You could retard it a little if it does. Have you checked if the springs are tight at rest?
Steve
 

Hi Steve no i have not checked the springs maybe they have lost some tension  did not think of that i will check tomorrow also will check if some circlips has fallen off like on your advancer in the video.

You can tighten them up by carefully bending the loops so there is no slack. One side is usually enough. 
Steve

Okay thanks for that tip !

Here's another one...

Ride the piss out of it!