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I'm try to tap them out with a punch, but I can't really get any of my punches or screwdrivers to really fit against the inner race.

I've done bearings on trucks before and there's always a lip or gap there for you to put your punch on.

Am I doing this wrong somehow?

edited: I think I'm going to bugger up one of the inner races and make a lip for the punch. I think the spacer is seating flush against the inner races so I can't see another way.

edited #2: Done. What a pain. I still don't know if I was doing it wrong, but I couldn't find anywhere on the inner race to put the punch on so I could drift it out. Had to drill out the ball bearing retainer plate on one wheel bearing to remove the inner race and then I got it all out.

Post edited by: GPZ1100, at: 2006/09/01 15:11

Hi, Tried running a small stick weld up the old bearing surface on four sides, this shrinks the metal and it should come out easy. Good luck

Wouldn't the heat expand the steel and make it harder for it to come out?

I messed up on the rear bearings as well. I removed the bearings and was installing the new ones. Had the left side and was doing the right - whoops is that my bearing spacer sitting on my workbench? The one that goes between the two bearings? The one that must be there before installing the 2nd one?

Luckily the new was was only about half the way in. I did have to put pressure on the inner race (bad, I know) to get it out but really it wasn't too much and no apparent damage. Still spins much nicer than the crusty old one.

Moral - don't forget the wheel spacer.

Wouldn't the heat expand the steel and make it harder for it to come out?

That's why you let it cool down first

Believe it or not, that trick actually works.