TOPIC:

The Electrical Flow Chart says that it is for use on
the rectifier/regulator set-up that is combined in a
single case and this one is two seperate units.
I have two seperate repair manuals, a Chilton and a
Clymer and both book's wiring schematics show the
'73 Z1, '74 Z1A, and '75 Z1B as only having one fuse.
Both of these books are extremely accurate on their
wiring diagrams as I have tried to find differances
to try those as problem spots and could not find any,
at least on this particular model.
I have checked and rechecked for shorts especially
in the tank, coil, steering neck, headlight and even
turn signals. Checked both ends of all four plugs at
the junction box under the battery. It did have bare
wires at the turn signals where someone attempted to
repair them with duct tape, now done right.
I even tried the old car test where I unhooked the
positive battery terminal and put a test light between
the wire end and the hot post, if the light comes on,
then there is a short or something pulling juice, even
with nothing turned on. The only thing pulling juice
was the oil pressure light and neutral light, I took
the wire off the oil switch and put the bike in gear
and the test light went back out. I then bent and
twisted wires and plugs to try to get it to come back
on and show me a short, and nothing showed up.

Thanks for your help guys, am I being a pain in the butt yet?

762shooter wrote:

The Electrical Flow Chart says that it is for use on
the rectifier/regulator set-up that is combined in a
single case and this one is two seperate units.
I have two seperate repair manuals, a Chilton and a
Clymer and both book's wiring schematics show the
'73 Z1, '74 Z1A, and '75 Z1B as only having one fuse....
....Thanks for your help guys, am I being a pain in the butt yet?

__YES__ !!!
Well, no, actually. Unfortunately over the phone, so to speak it is sort of tough to visualize where the bulk of the current is going. You need to isolate that circuit/branch. I printed off your post to see if it would help when I held it up to my forehead, like The Great,,,whatever.
Do you honestly feel you don't have a short? Take what I suggest next with a grain of salt and consider it carefully before proceeding.
Take out whatever size fuse you are using and put in one that is, oh, I don't know, 25% to 50% heavier. If you do in fact have a short somewhere, it should still blow _without_ causing a dern diatomic explosion. People who replace fuses with nails are braver than me. I'm a sissy when it comes to diatomic explosions! One time, and only one time, I took a nuclear stress test, and the med tech _DROPPED_ the syringe containing the nuclear dye and that thing dern near exploded! Right beside my LEFT toe!! Man, was I pissed!!! But I deviate, or am a deviate, or... Any way, if you have a component drawing a good bit more juice than it should, then the heavier fuse may spell trouble for it over extended time.
If you (STRONG emphasis here on _you_) do decide to go this route, and a heavier fuse does blow, then do not ride it. Get back to me and we will disconnect individual branch circuits till the main path is isolated.

JimatMilkyWay wrote:

762shooter wrote:

The Electrical Flow Chart says that it is for use on
the rectifier/regulator set-up that is combined in a
single case and this one is two seperate units.
I have two seperate repair manuals, a Chilton and a
Clymer and both book's wiring schematics show the
'73 Z1, '74 Z1A, and '75 Z1B as only having one fuse....
....Thanks for your help guys, am I being a pain in the butt yet?

__YES__ !!!
Well, no, actually. Unfortunately over the phone, so to speak it is sort of tough to visualize where the bulk of the current is going. You need to isolate that circuit/branch. I printed off your post to see if it would help when I held it up to my forehead, like The Great,,,whatever.
Do you honestly feel you don't have a short? Take what I suggest next with a grain of salt and consider it carefully before proceeding.
Take out whatever size fuse you are using and put in one that is, oh, I don't know, 25% to 50% heavier. If you do in fact have a short somewhere, it should still blow _without_ causing a dern diatomic explosion. People who replace fuses with nails are braver than me. I'm a sissy when it comes to diatomic explosions! One time, and only one time, I took a nuclear stress test, and the med tech _DROPPED_ the syringe containing the nuclear dye and that thing dern near exploded! Right beside my LEFT toe!! Man, was I pissed!!! But I deviate, or am a deviate, or... Any way, if you have a component drawing a good bit more juice than it should, then the heavier fuse may spell trouble for it over extended time.
If you (STRONG emphasis here on _you_) do decide to go this route, and a heavier fuse does blow, then do not ride it. Get back to me and we will disconnect individual branch circuits till the main path is isolated.

just say NO to oversize fuses,the fuse is sized for the wiring.id say disconnect all unnecary(spell check)stuff and start from there.if it runs with extra stuff disconected start hooking up one thing at a time ,if you leave bike idling for any length of time while doing this put a box fan on it to keep it cooled off

wireman wrote:

just say NO to oversize fuses,the fuse is sized for the wiring.id say disconnect all unnecary(spell check)stuff and start from there.if it runs with extra stuff disconected start hooking up one thing at a time ,if you leave bike idling for any length of time while doing this put a box fan on it to keep it cooled off

Hey Shooter
You see that gun wireman is holding to his head?
That is "potentially" what you are doing by putting in fuses to carry a higher current than what is called for. Be sure you are clear on that. As for me, I'm not a sissy. He and I both pointed out, the branch with the problem can be isolated by pulling wires until you find where current is going. Do you want to try the current check method I sort of alluded to earlier? Do you know how to use a current meter safely? If you happen to have a 0.5Ω, 500W precision resistor in your pocket, we can do the same current tests, but using the voltage-drop approach instead of risking your current meter.
Or better yet, if you have a clamp on current meter that will read 30Adc we'll take a stab at it.

Post edited by: JimatMilkyWay, at: 2007/03/03 11:32

JimatMilkyWay, I sent you another PM.
Thank you.