the KEY to a good solder joint is clean metal that is free of oxidation. Shiney copper, tin plate that is not covered with oxide, no paint, no lacquer, no grease or oil. Heat the joint and flow solder onto the joint, just like in plumbing but you can keep the heat applied while you flow the solder.
You can solder Aluminum. It's a royal PITA though.
If you anticipate doing a good bit of soldering you'll want something pretty nice with temp control tip.
For electrical soldering you want a 60W or 100W iron. If you anticipate using it outdoors or in drafty areas in the wintertime, get the 100W. Weller makes some nice irons and parts are easy to get and reasonable for the quality.
60W
100W
you will want a finer tip than stock on the 100W for finer wires on the bike.
The 100w is big enough for repairs of thin sheet metal if done on a warm day with no breeze.
These have temperature controlled tips. Temp control makes your tip last a LOT longer and heats more quickly. The 700W tip is fine for Sn60/40 or Sn63/37 'rosin' core fluxed solder. Buy yourself a 1lb roll. 1mm or so diameter. The 63/37 is a eutectic solder. this means it goes from liquid to solid with no intermediate phase. One can work more quickly with it at the expense of slightly weaker joints. It's commonly used for electronics in a production environment. Back in the day when life wasn't so hectic, we used 60/40 in electronics because it is stronger.
Weller also has some non temperature controlled irons. While fine for the occasional quick job you won't enjoy using to build up a harness unless you get a cradle with a thermostat to keep the iron from overheating. In an non temp control a 40 or 60 W should do the trick.
here is there line of 'consumer' irons
line
-Duck
Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/08/18 03:02
Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/08/18 03:04