TOPIC:

I just swapped out the 30-year-old Kawi starter, with a starter made for a Honda CB750, and it's a good mod. The new starter spins it over like I forgot the spark plugs !

Where did you get it? It looks refurbished.

A previous posting covering this:


Using a stronger Honda starter motor in a Kawasaki

Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:

Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?

Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked

MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Buda Wrote:
Thanks MFolks, Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.

Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.

The starter came from stockers - per a lead from Mfolks - good $139.00 mod - the one I got was marked .7, yet it has gobs of power.

Trickiest part is spinning around the case to get the wire nut attachment at about 4 o'clock so it clears everything. I pulled off the front end of the new starter and almost dropped the internal bushings from the front end.

Very good tips, thanks.

MFolks wrote: A previous posting covering this:


Using a stronger Honda starter motor in a Kawasaki

Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:

Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?

Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked

MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Buda Wrote:
Thanks MFolks, Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.

Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.

Intriguing!!
Please forgive me for asking what may be obvious ( Im OLD.. thats my excuse) But....what year Honda starter and what year Kawi? have a '75 Z1-B 900 myself...so what year etc. Honda starter would fit mine?
Thanks
TennesseeZ Ed

The earlier KZ900/1000 with kickstart has a two (2) brush starter motor and fitting the later J/GPZ (non kickstart) starter is an upgrade for these as they are four (4) brush.
The .8kw Honda starter is usually a benefit on engines that have had a compression increase or big bore.
All years of KZ and GPZ will take the Honda starter.
The std kz or GPZ starter is good enough though for std engines if kept in good condition.

zed1015 is correct - the GPz starter had four brushes.

I took mine apart, and it still has plenty of brushes left, good spring pressure on them too, but the commutator isn't shiny copper anymore, it's scorched & black, and I suspect that if I take the starter over to the tool repair shop that the windings have broken down.

The starter I put in has two brushes, where the stocker has four, so we'll see how long it lasts - if I get only 15 years out of it instead of 30 it'll be OK with me -

The scorching on the commutator is common and usually caused by arcing.
A clean up with emery cloth (or if scored, a light skim on the lathe)and then lightly under cut the mica insulation between the segments should restore proper function.

So whaddya think, do you suppose it's worthwhile to rebuild it, and put it away for down the road ?



I can match up the brushes, and I've got a 6" Atlas Copco lathe in the basement - but if I throw the armature on the growler and it's been damaged by the heat I doubt I could find another one -

Yes! it's worth doing. You have nothing to loose especially if you think it's damaged anyhow.
I've salvaged loads that looked like scrap and wouldn't even turn.
If the commutator is scored then a just enough of a very light skim of the copper segments to produce a clean smooth surface for the brushes to run on then carefully cut back the mica insulation between the segments with a section of fine hacksaw blade.
Flush out the armature and body with brake cleaner then a very light smear of copper grease etc in the plain bearings on reassembly.
The windings rarely burn out under normal use and the usual cause of that is someone using jumper leads from a car battery to start the bike.

Cool stuff