TOPIC:

The rubber RTV compound(not the type that's a sealant, as it sets up hard)can be used to overcoat the coil terminals. It will serve two purposes; 1.A vibration resistant covering and 2.This will prevent moisture from getting between the screws and the coil body causing corrosion.

The RTV can be removed with your fingers easily, allowing repairs.

Just fired it up for the first time in a year! Started right up with my fuel bladder. Carbs leaking fuel of course, but I knew that would happen. Any time this bike has sat for longer than a week the floats stuck...That'll be the next project.

I decided to use 2 layers of heat shrink tubing on my mounting bolt - I also picked out a new one from the 'bolts' bin in the garage...it has a smaller diameter thus giving me a little more room between it and the screw.

Gotta do the other one next, and I think I'll try the rtv idea.

Great news!

Better then RTV, where if required to remove, doesn't brake apart in pieces. Also stays pliable once cured.... This stuff rocks!

ACE Hardware, Lowes, Home Depot etc...

Old Man Rock wrote: Due to 5-10 second time delay....

Dis-connect coil and Dyna ignition (+12Vdc) for T-shooting.
Turn ignition on and see if fuse blows again...

Also insure coil mounting studs are not shorting to grounded frame...
Heat shrink or Nylon spacers...

I'm thinking coils as they warm up with current flow is causing the blown fuse...
But hey, that's just me....

OK, this is off-topic, but only a little bit.

I just had the same problem with my @#$%&!!! KZ650. Two of the machine screws holding the coils on had been buck-threaded, and even with a 90 degree head screwdriver, getting the screws out with those Phillips' heads was a PITA, so I decided to "improve" the design.

I went to my local Ace Hardware store. They didn't have any metric screws or bolts that would work, so I went with 1/4" stainless steel bolts with Allen heads. They were just a bit bigger than the 6mm machine screws the coils had originally been installed with, but the spacers still fit. I didn't have any shrink wrap, so I wrapped the spacers and the nylon nuts I'd used to secure them with electrical tape as best I could, and used Nylock nuts to secure the coils to the brackets on the frame. It never even started before it blew the fuse again.

Looking at it, I decided going with a slightly larger bolt had been my problem. Even though they were only a tiny bit larger than the old ones (remember, the spacers still fit), that slight difference in size had spaced the terminal on the coils even closer to the bolt/spacer/nut.

The next day, i went to a fastener place, and explained what I was trying to do to the guy there. What we ended up coming up with were 3/16 brass (non-conductive) machine screws (no Allen heads in brass), with nylon nuts to secure the spacers, and Nylock nuts to mount the coils. The 3/16 screws were actually a little bit smaller than the original screws, so that gave me a little more room. I took the trusty Dremel tool to the bracket on the coil, and the mounting hole on the frame mount and hogged them out just a nudge, giving me a bit more room.

I mounted the coils with the machine screws running downwards, instead of upwards, so I'd be able to get at the vulnerable screw-heads more easily, and used real shrink-wrap this time. I didn't like how close the coils were to the frame brackets, so I stuck the 1/4" nylon nuts left over from my previous attempt in as spacers. It fired right up, and no problems ... so far.

The pic OMR posted, though, raised some questions.

Obviously, the wire at the top of the coil is hot. Same as mine.

The wire at the bottom end of the coil is what concerns me. It's black, so I'm guessing it's a ground. My coils don't have that wire, or any other wire connected to that second terminal.

What's more, one of my coils has a ground wire running from the outside hole on the coil mount to the cylinder head. Back when I was trying and trying to solve the electrical problems on the bike, this guy looked at it and said the coils needed to be grounded. That's what this ground is, but it's only on one coil (we did both).

After doing it, nothing changed with my electrical problems, and if I recall correctly, the overwhelming consensus on here was that the additional grounds were unnecessary. I was sure we'd removed them, but I guess I'm only half-right.

Looking at the diagram for the WG Coil Mod, it appears to show just one wire running to each coil.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...view&id=12&Itemid=26

What is that other wire for on OMR's coils, and should I be concerned that i don't have it? The bike is running fine.

What about the ground wire running from the left-hand coil to the valve cover?

Each coil should have +12Vdc(Battery)... Yellow/Red or other color.

The other conductors to each coil is the pulse feed from the Dyna plate, NOT GROUND!!!!

The black conductor in the picture as depicted in the image is the coil feed from the Dyna plate for coil/cylinders 2/3. Coil 1/4 should have a white conductor from the Dyna plate....

I had the same problem. Mine turned out to be the right coil mounting screws to the frame. The nuts on the bottom of the mounting screws vibrated off allowing one of the screws to work it's way up and hit one of the terminals on the coil.
You just have to start looking for burnt or disconnected wires. Take off the side covers and check both sides. Take off the tank and check.