Dyna coils

Just a thought... are there any numbers ect on the "box" or system?? Have you tried contacting Dyna to see what you really have??
Maybe give us a link to the eBay auction to see what you bought??

If I recall properly, the Dyna S uses more power than the stock points/condensor but it isn't a huge amount. LOUDVHX mentioned this I believe. Haven't seen him around lately but he could likely shed some light on this. I have installed about 100 Dyna S with Dyna coils/wires over the years with no issues. You have to watch how the rotor is installed since there is a single magnet on the rotor as someone has mentioned. At TDC for 1 & 4 you need to install it at about 9 oclock position. Again, if the wrong Dyna 2000 or 3000 was purchased, its module will not fire the same way a Kaw module fires. Doubt it has to do with draw.

Noticed on Z1E site that the latest version of Dyna 2000 ignition includes a pair of 2.2 ohm dual output coils.

Dyna 2000 ignition with 2.2 ohm coils

Perhaps the Dyna ignition currently fitted is also designed to work with 2.2 ohm coils, which is course less resistance than the Dyna 3 ohm green coils now fitted (designed to work with the Dyna-S ignition). Am thinking the higher resistance of the green 3 ohm coils might be consistent with suspicion of the green 3 ohm coils "drawing too much power" when used with the Dyna ignition from eBay.

If this is the case, the green 3 ohm coils may have been the wrong coils to purchase for using with the Dyna ignition bought on eBay.

Z1E also offers the Dyna 2.2 ohm coils.

2.2 ohm coils

Good Luck!

Tonight I checked to see if the dyna coils were shorting out on the primary wires because its extremely close to the mounting bolt spacer.I've read on this forum where others have had this problem and I had checked it before at night w/the tank off and running but didn't see any arcing ,I even had heat shrink tubing on the spacer .But it just seemed like the only logical explanation. so I installed some plastic spacers and used some rubber on the frame under the coils but it was no better. Next I took the mounting bolts right out and zipped tied them on rubber to the frame still no difference.next I unplugged the stator and rectifier and it ran PRETTY GOOD this is the only time i've had it running good w/the dyna 3 ohm coils. so since I did a lot of wiring work I figured I've got something hooked wrong,like maybe a wire in one of the connectors in the wrong place but i havent found anything yet.The Dyna coils are good,the electronic ignition is good so why does it run ok when I unhook the charging system? The stator seems to test good I didn't find any grounded shorts.

I'd check the wiring (3 yellow 14-16 gauge wires) through the grommet on the left side of the engine. Possibly the insulation has broken down and is rubbing together. The wires run above and behind the countershaft sprocket and are bundled with the neutral switch and the oil pressure switch(I think). Any of these might be the cause of the trouble with the charging system.

Z1 enterprises sells the grommet for $12.38 if the old one is hard and starting to leak oil.

If not already done, would test performance using points with the green Dyna coils. If runs better, would indicate the coils are okay, and cast more suspicion toward the eBay Dyna itself or the eBay Dyna with 3.0 ohm coils.

Good Luck!

Before the Dyna S, there was a Dyna III. The Dyna III had the remote igniter box. The two systems work almost the same, but they were able to squeeze everything down from the Dyna III and fit it into the pickup assembly on the Dyna S.

They both use hall-effect pickups triggered by a magnet on the rotor. The Dyna S and Dyna III extend the dwell angle to well over 300 degrees, approaching 360 degrees. The stock points system uses a 180 degree dwell angle. The stock electronic ignition varies from around 100 to 120 degrees. Because the dwell is so much longer on the Dyna system, they use a lot more average current. Unfortunately, most of the time that extra dwell is simply converted to heat in the coils. This is most problematic when idling since this is when the alternator is producing the least amount of power. Weak charging systems show up when a Dyna S or III is installed.

Theoretically, if the Dyna were to produce a 360 degree dwell, it would use twice the average current of the stock points system and over three times as much current as the stock electronic system at idle. If there was a ballast resistor, and that is removed for the Dyna, then the system is using even more current.

All of this extra long dwell does have one advantage, though, it ensures the coils have enough charge time at very high RPMs. This can help if the motor had problems revving all the way to redline under load.

Using higher resistance coils would reduce the power consumption.

I would assume the Dyna III ignitor boxes are identical for Honda or Kawasaki, and only the pickup/rotor assembly is different.

For troubleshooting, you can flip the rotor 180 and swap primary wires on the coils. If the misfiring moves to the other set of cylinders, then the Dyna has a problem, either wiring or the system itself is bad. I see you already tried swapping the Dyna III box (I assume you cant swap the pickups for the Honda version), so flipping the rotor and swapping primary wires will narrow it down to the pickup assembly (if the problem moves to the other cylinders).

If the problem stays on the same set of cylinders, then it may be a bad coil or plugs or plug wires. (Or carburetion or motor problems which you've already been considering.)

And to answer the question of why it runs better without the charging system, it's possible the pickups are bad and are sensitive to the spikes the charging system produces. This is just a guess, but not impossible. Hall-effect pickups are pretty sensitive.

I kinda dont think its the pickups because I put yhe points plate back in (w/the new dyna 3 ohm coils)and it still spit and sputtered.As fars as seeing if the problem jumps to the other set of cylinders thats not gonna matter because it does it on ALL cylinders.I am so totally stumped you dont KNOW!Some other things I need to try are check and see if AC voltage is somehow getting to the coils and want to try the electronic ignition with the old coils UUUGGHHHH thanks for the suggestions,Bob

heres a couple of things I've recently discovered.When I unbolt the dyna 3 ohm coils and insulate them from the frame using rubber and zip ties,then unplug the stator in runs much better.I checked the power to the coils when not running via yellow/red wire and get 12 volts.when running the meter does nothing but flash and wont lock on a reading.I then cleaned the frame mounting points and rebolted the coils with only a rear bolt and the reading locked in . so I tried it STILL SPITS AND SPUTTERS so I stopped on the side of the road and unplugged the stator this time it did nothing.it ran good when the coils were insulated from the frame and stator unplugged so what the ? Some kinda grounding issue? I've checked all the grounds and added some.Is the stator bad?I've checked all three legs and no grounds even turned it over slowly with a wrench nothing. When reved up its putting out nearly 14 volts at the battery that doent seem bad. What the hell is interacting with the dyna coils. Its not the electronic ignition because I put the points back in with the dyna coils and no better.I put the dyna 5 ohm coils from my other bike no better.I've swapped modules no better.98% of the wiring is new. new battery.I'm pretty up set spending $140 for coils and cant get it to run right.

I already tried it with the points and dyna 3 ohm coils no better,tried the dyna 5 ohm coils from my honda no better,tried the dyna module from my honda no better the coils and module from my honda are known to be good

boogiepicker wrote:

I already tried it with the points and dyna 3 ohm coils no better,tried the dyna 5 ohm coils from my honda no better,tried the dyna module from my honda no better the coils and module from my honda are known to be good

To confirm, this is with the points and green Dyna 3 ohm coils, and without any involvement of the eBay Dyna ignition. In other words, the black wire wire from the left-hand points going directly to a primary winding terminal on the left coil firing the outside plugs, and the green wire from the right-hand points going directly to a primary winding terminal on the right coil firing the inside plugs, with each coil having a red/yellow wire (battery positive voltage) to its other primary winding terminal. And NOT running any wires from the points through the eBay Dyna ignition.

If remembering correctly, the points with the old oem coils and NO eBay Dyna involvement performed much better than the points with the green Dyna 3 ohm coils. This of course would mean that -- for some reason not yet determined -- the old coils performed better than the green Dyna 3 ohm coils, because the same points were used with both sets of coils and the eBay Dyna wasn't even connected into the system.

So has an issue evolved as to why the old coils perform better than the green Dyna 3 ohm coils (as if the eBay ignition had never been installed)?

As a dual output coil doesn't require grounding (except for one primary winding terminal grounding and ungrounding through action of the points) and the coil should perform perfectly well just hanging from a plastic tie-wrap, it is abnormal that "grounding" the coils would make any difference in performance. Am now thinking some really bizzare wiring must be involved to cause such a result. Especially since none of the charging components are supposed to be involved with the ignition components.

May be getting time to trace each wire to assure routing according to the factory wiring diagram.

Good Luck!

Tonight I bolted on some old coils (4 ohm) to try with the Dyna ignition because that is one combination i haven't tried. It runs perfect.It won't run in any other combination
Except old coils and points. It won't run with dyna 3 ohm coils and Dyna electronic ignition,It won't run with Dyna 5 ohm coils and Dyna electronic ignition. It won't run with Dyna 3 ohm coils and points ignition (by the way when I say "won't run" I mean skips ,spits and sputters badly ).So you can see the one thing consistant in these combinations are DYNA COILS WHY? Do they need a ballast resister? if so why?Whats the ballast resister look like and where is it located ? I'm pretty sure I already know But i want to double check. Even though I got it running it bugs the hell out of me why it won't run with DYNA COILS? I'm going to email Dynatek to see if they have some kinda explaination