TOPIC:

My kill swirch (off/run/off) on the throttle grip housing was always a bit loose and sloppy but didn't really give me much trouble, until yesterday. I came back to a parking lot and the bike would not start, no way, no how. No button, no kick. I had idiot lights/headlight/signals and a good main fuse. I took the tank and side covers off in the lot and could not find any bad/loose connections. What the hell? I got the bike home and took off the kill switch for an inspection. I seperated the housing and removed three tiny screws holding the switch button. It fell apart in my hand ! The button was busted up into about three chunks inside. I took one off my parts wreck, cleaned it up, lubed it inside, then remounted the works. It went Vroooooom off the starter button. Oh ya, while I was in the housing I sprayed the starter button contacts with evaporating brake disc cleaner.....I found the inside of these kill switches to be: full off dirt/rusted/in dire need of spray lube.

1977 KZ 650 B1

Sounds familiar Pretty much the same thing has happened to me in the past except that when I took mine apart it was a squashed bug across the contacts that had caused the failure . Ever since then I try not to use the kill switch as they do seem fragile and if it works I leave it alone.
Glad you got it going.

I had a Kill Switch failure too! Mine fell apart into several pieces. Since I had no spare unit to turn to I had to rebuild it with the original bits and pieces and plastic plumbing glue. Although it works fine now, like JR I just don't use it.

Just a thought... if you have this typical aging fault, your connectors may be doing the same thing. Have you considered the Coil Re-powering modification? I did it an what a difference. Again, just a thought.

By the way, it considered real friendly here to include your location in your signature.

Best of success!

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2007/07/06 09:43

WD40 works good for this;)

JR wrote:

Sounds familiar Pretty much the same thing has happened to me in the past except that when I took mine apart it was a squashed bug across the contacts that had caused the failure . Ever since then I try not to use the kill switch as they do seem fragile and if it works I leave it alone.
Glad you got it going.

Yup JR, I have the same philosophy, leave that button alone. Only time I have to turn it is when it gets bumped out of alignment somehow.

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

I had a Kill Switch failure too! Mine fell apart into several pieces. Since I had no spare unit to turn to I had to rebuild it with the original bits and pieces and plastic plumbing glue. Although it works fine now, like JR I just don't use it.

Just a thought... if you have this typical aging fault, your connectors may be doing the same thing. Have you considered the Coil Re-powering modification? I did it an what a difference. Again, just a thought.

By the way, it considered real friendly here to include your location in your signature.

Best of success!<br><br>Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2007/07/06 09:43

I've had the coil re-powering components collected and sitting in a box somewhere. I am admittedly a little lazy at times.


Same goes with location sig. I have been around this board for years Bill and I know the drill buddy.

Snakebyte wrote:

WD40 works good for this;)

That's what I squirted into the old/new button. It was unreal how much dirt was packed in that switch! 30 years worth I suppose. 1977 KZ 650 B1.

I do not use my Kill Switch, for about a year now, since I've read these posts about kill switch problems.

My turn signal switch started getting difficult to use. Very hard to move back and forth.
When I got home, I opened both handlebar switches and sprayed them with an electrical contact cleaner, then WD40. Works like a charm now.
I will keep an eye on them because WD40 will dry out over time.

There's no reason to ever use the kill switch. Mine went bad because of my girlfriends 10 yr old son that pretty much destroys everything his hands get near. Saw the switch and just had to play with it and 10 seconds later, broken switch. Just wire across it and eliminate it.

If you're absolutely mad to have the kill switch in place or need bits for it, brand y uses the same setup on many of their early '80's four cylinder slugs. I believe/believe all the bits are interchangeable but you may want to do some invstigation first.