#4 Plug Fouling

My added text covered some of the original text which is shown in the following post.

Good Luck!

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those drawings are great. a little to late but great none the less. i found some o rings today that fit perfect on those plugs. i have it all back together but havent thoroughly tested it yet.

replaced the orings and threw in some new plugs and still doesnt work.
i am very frustrated with it and wish i could just take it in but i am very poor at the moment.

sometimes after i drive it the #4 pipes is hot like the rest. other times it is just warm. in this way it seems to be intermittent.
but no matter if the pipe was hot or cold it has a buzziness to it at around 3500-4000 rpms and up which i think is from the misfiring cylinder

i have the carbs at a mechanic right now. he says the k&l float needles and seats that i just put in are not good. there is also a tiny amount of rust in my tank.
the OEM float valves are spendy $$$ but he seems to think that is the problem. i just dont understand why i am only having a problem with 1 cylinder. it is never one of the other 3. i didnt realize these carbs where so touchy and difficult to get running right.
and i guess my inline fuel filter must be junk because it doesnt filter out the rust.

i dont think i can afford to fix my carbs. that is a bummer.

To rule out possible petcock diaphram fuel leakage issue (whereby fuel might be sucked into carb vacuum nipple through the tube connecting carb vacuum nipple to petcock vacuum nipple), could cap/plug the carb vacuum nipple that usually furnishes vacuum to the petcock. Thereby eliminating any possiblity of unwanted fuel entering the carb vacuum nipple.

Install a brand new spark plug in #4 cylinder. And test run with petcock in PRI position (so petcock will flow fuel without any vacuum being supplied to petcock).

The brand new spark plug is recommended because a relatively new plug that's been fuel fouled may appear perfectly okay, and maybe even fire outside the cylinder, but never-the-less be beyond hope of recovery. I don't know why NGK plugs seem to suffer such affliction, but it happens.

After test running, be sure to turn the petcock to RUN or RES position, and not leave it in PRI position.

Good Luck!

my #2 carb is connected to the petcock so that isnt the problem.

the bike sure runs strong and has lots of power. i wouldnt hardly know that it wasnt firing on 4 except for a vibration that i get above 4-5k rpms and the pipe being only lukewarm.
i expected it to be sluggish and slow but it sure moves. i cant imagine what it will be like on 4 cylinders.

the only part in the carb that i hadnt switched from one to the other was the needle jet or emulsion tube or whatever it is called. today i swapped them over. no change in scene.

i am getting the matches out.

88alltrac wrote:

i am getting the matches out.

Stick with it. Use the matches to light your Victory cigar.

i am quite short on money but i am thinking of buying another set of carbs. i am really out of any other ideas.