TOPIC:

Well - Here's the scoop:

1. My clutch cable snapped (at the lever) about a week ago. Prior to that, the clutch worked flawlessly.

2. I removed the clutch cable (using my Kawasaki Manual. After removal, I cleaned the inside of the sprocket cover and lubricated the worm gear clutch adjustment mechanism.

3. I ordered my cable from CRC.

4. Clutch cable comes in, I reinstall and adjust per the manual.

5. Everything is in place and adjusted correctly.

The problem I have is that the clutched will not disengage fully. I tried every adjustment possible and still a lack of complete disengagement. It's odd - when adjusted per the manual, and in 1st gear, the bike will not roll when the clutch is engaged. When I pull the clutch lever (and I can watch the adjustment worm gear move) the bike will just barely roll - very hard.

When I adjust the screw on the worm gear all the way in, the bike will roll very hard in 1st gear (without the lever pulled), but when I pull the lever the bike dosen't roll much easier. It's like only full engagement or partial disengagement - NO FULL DISENGAGEMENT - PERIOD!

Couple things to note:

1. The bike has been sitting for 2 weeks.

2. I cannot start the bike right now because I'm doing a custom fabricated Instrument Cluster and everything is unplugged.

This kinda sux, cause the bike is cherry and ran (and shifted) great before this "simple" clutch cable problem.

Thanks!!!

I can't say exactly what is wrong but I believe it is in the worm gear and how it is installed. Years ago we managed to install the worm gear incorrectly on my dragbike and ended up friction welding both ends of the clutch pushrod. We never actually found out our mistake just figured it was the only thing we did wrong as we had just put new clutch plates in before the race. Disassemble the worm gear and try again is all I can suggest. There is only one correct way for it to work right but it can be reinstalled incorrectly quite easily (I think).

chopstar wrote:

...This kinda sux...

Are you sure the clutch cover is "popped" on all the way? Sometimes when you re-attach it, it can get a little bit off as you tighten it, and not seat fully into position. If it's not all the way tightened, it will cause the symptom as you describe.

Also, did you perhaps remove the clutch push-rod while going through things? I would fear that the little bearing that lives in there might have fallen out while doing so. If the bearing was missing you could have the similar symptom, though I kinda think that you could still adjust the cable to compensate... so I'm not sure on this one...

The only other thing I could recommend is to look again at where the cable is connected inside the cover...

1. I didn't remove the worm gear mechanism from the cover during the repair - it was left in the exact same position.

2. The clutch cover is definitely on "all they way" and I wasn't aware that that little ball bearing could actually fall out if the clutch pushrod was removed.

Hmmmmm...

chopstar wrote:

...I wasn't aware that that little ball bearing could actually fall out if the clutch pushrod was removed....

Maybe I'm confusing with the other side... I can't remember, it's been a while now...

Either way, I'm sitting here thinking about this and here's my thoughts: If the lever is adjusted with only the little amount of play, like the 4mm or whatever the manual says, then squeezing the lever must pull the cable a set amount, which actuates the pushrod a certain amount, which disengages the clutch a certian amount. The only thing that could make the lever-squeeze distance not translate to the pushrod is a change in the ratio, perhaps due to an improper assembly of the gear mechanism at the end of the cable, or a flexing of the clutch cover (but you addressed that), or a frayed cable. Right? I can't think of anything else that could cause this new difference....

Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2006/08/05 09:40

The ball bearing comes out when you remove the clutch pusher on the clutch side and not from the countershaft sprocket side. I suggest you take the bike out onto a road with a flat screwdriver and 12mm open end wrench. The reason your clutch is behaving as it does is improper adjustment... You have to screw the adjuster screw in and out a bit to find its proper adjustment, then lock down the 12mm nut. I KNOW you have already done all kinds of adjustment but here is what I would do:

1. install cable. Make sure the end that fits into the slot on the plastic worm is seated proper and you have a cotter pin going through the bracket to keep the cable end in place.
2. put about 3/16" of threaded adjuster between the locing wheel and barrel part of the switch gear adjuster
3. remove slack from cable using the two mid-cable barrels
4. do whatever your manual calls for with the worm gear adjust screw but then do the road adjusting step as I noted.

I have NEVER adjusted a clutch properly without doing he final road adjust step.

chopstar wrote:

Well - Here's the scoop:

1. My clutch cable snapped (at the lever) about a week ago. Prior to that, the clutch worked flawlessly.

2. I removed the clutch cable (using my Kawasaki Manual. After removal, I cleaned the inside of the sprocket cover and lubricated the worm gear clutch adjustment mechanism.

3. I ordered my cable from CRC.

4. Clutch cable comes in, I reinstall and adjust per the manual.

5. Everything is in place and adjusted correctly.

The problem I have is that the clutched will not disengage fully. I tried every adjustment possible and still a lack of complete disengagement. It's odd - when adjusted per the manual, and in 1st gear, the bike will not roll when the clutch is engaged. When I pull the clutch lever (and I can watch the adjustment worm gear move) the bike will just barely roll - very hard.

When I adjust the screw on the worm gear all the way in, the bike will roll very hard in 1st gear (without the lever pulled), but when I pull the lever the bike dosen't roll much easier. It's like only full engagement or partial disengagement - NO FULL DISENGAGEMENT - PERIOD!

Couple things to note:

1. The bike has been sitting for 2 weeks.

2. I cannot start the bike right now because I'm doing a custom fabricated Instrument Cluster and everything is unplugged.

This kinda sux, cause the bike is cherry and ran (and shifted) great before this "simple" clutch cable problem.

Thanks!!!

From your post I understand the bike was not started and you are saying the bke does not roll easy when in first gear with the clutch pulled in? I just had a thought that a multidisc clutch will spontaniously get stuck and will have your symtoms until it gets broke loose. It will have more drag under your described conditions, wether it properly adjusted or not. I agree with WG it needs to be started and checked further before you can be sure about your adjustments.........mod

I have just adjusted my clutch on a 79 mk2. It does something siml. When I first start is and put in gear WITH the clutch engaged it takes off. It is also hard to impossible to roll unless in N. I put the front brake on when I shift from N to 1st and it holds it. After it runs a second with the brake on it is fine. It is like the clutch is sticking. Once it does it thing it is ok from then on.

I re adjusted everything today and will try it tomorrow. It was still warm when I readjusted it so it was still working ok.

I have not had the bike long as was woundering if the wrong oil could cause this

I tried my bike today while it was cold. It moved just a little when it started. I hit the front brake and it took very little to stop it. I pumped the clutch a couple of time and it was fine with no dragging

Apparently this was a non-issue. Once the motor is started, the bike rolls freely in gear with the clutch pulled. A few fine adjustments, and it's back to perfect.

It's good to note that the "feel" of the clutch engagement/disengagement varies based on if the engine is running or not. I'm sure that oil viscousity has an effect also.

Today I went out and started the bike . It pulled for ward a little. I screw the clutch adjustment in a 1/2 turn and that was it no more pulling when cold.

I went by the book, it was just adding about 3/4 turn after contact with the clutch rod